Written by Sheila O'Connor

Photographed by Frank O'Connor

The history of the state and its largest city is also fascinating. The best place to find out more is at the Anchorage Museum of History and Art, Alaska's largest museum and one of the ten most visited attractions in the state. Over 10,000 years of Alaskan history is showcased, including how Alaskan natives survived and how the Europeans and Russians explored the area. One fascinating exhibit is the Alaskan railroad, a tribute to the work and determination of the many who put this engineering feat together, right up to the golden spike being put in by President Hardin, in 1923. Check out authentic pioneer and native dwelling displays and an actual section of the Alaska pipeline.

Of course Anchorage is famous for it's many glaciers. John Muir, the American naturalist, back in the 1800s, described his experience thus: "This is my first view of such solitude, and magnificence, such ice and snow newborn ... mysterious, yet wonderful."

If you want to experience mysterious yet wonderful glaciers, just as he did, then check out the 26 Glacier Cruise. The cruise ship has been going for over 20 years and has over 340 passengers on board at any one time. "It's different and beautiful here, every day," said Captain Nina Himmelwright, who has spent seven seasons on the boat. And who can argue with her?

The most popular of the 26 glaciers on the tour is undoubtedly the Surprise Glacier, just for the rumbling, eerie noises that emanate from it. Bits of ice break off and drop spectacularly into the sea in front of you. The floats that result can exist as ice for days at a time. Surprise Glacier is 1.6 kilometres wide and 90 metres high.  These waters are the northernmost salt water in North America yet surprisingly they never freeze.

Surprising too, is the fact that there are actually 100,000 glaciers in Alaska yet only just over half of them have names. One, the Malaspina, in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, is larger than Rhode Island. That's one enormous piece of ice!

The cruise boat runs seasonally until September 30th. "I think it is the best single day experience in Alaska. You get the cruise experience but get to go home to your own bed at night," informed Marsha Barton, Marketing Manager.

Among the wildlife you'll see on the tour are playful sea otters, whales, bald eagles and kittiwake. Bald eagles are protected in the rest of America but here in Alaska they are found in abundance, to the tune of 7,000 plus. Prince William Sound is actually home to over 200 species of birds, including bald eagles, arctic terns, gulls and common loons.

When it comes to the most common tourist question, this is, perhaps not surprisingly: "When do the whales come out?" In response, the staff will unequivocally guarantee that you will see glaciers. Alas, the whales cannot be predicted, so it's a bonus if you see one. That's just the way nature is. You do get to see all three kinds of glacier, so that's good compensation: alpine or hanging, piedmont and incredible tidewater glaciers await you, some of the latter rising 100 metres above the water.

The 215-kilometre tour includes narration on the history of the daring natives who ventured into the Sound in the past. The Harriman Expedition named many of the glaciers over 100 years ago. Prince William Sound, for example, was named by British navigator, Captain James Cook, for William Henry who later became King William IV of England. Cook is himself commemorated with a statue close to downtown Anchorage.

Another place to spot a glacier is at Portage Lake, which is surrounded by the Chugach and Kanai mountains. Check out the Begich Boggs Visitor Centre, which shows a 20-minute film, Voices from the Ice, every half hour. It's fascinating. Don't be surprised to see icebergs floating on the lake here too, right outside the centre's door - they regularly just drop off the Portage Glacier.

Apart from glaciers, people come to Anchorage to see the wildlife. One sure way to see bears, for instance, is at the Conservation Centre, the only centre of its kind in Alaska. Don't miss this! Any bear you see, however, may not be healthy -in fact, it's likely to be a rescued or rehabilitated bear. The centre is a non-profit organisation that takes care of orphaned and injured animals. These could include moose, brown bears, black bears, porcupine, elk, bison, caribou, musk ox, and birds of prey. Most of them simply cannot survive in the wild.

Just take one of the residents: Seymour, for instance. Seymour was an orphaned moose calf who wandered into a family yard. The family looked after him for a year but called officials when he became a threat to children in the area. Seymour has become so accustomed to humans, he can no longer fend for himself in the wild. As a result, he's lived at the centre since 1997 and has actually appeared in nature shows and movies. The centre has its own celebrity in him! Alas, he cannot sign autographsÉ

Seymour shares the centre with two great-horned owls, both of which were the victim of gunshot wounds and are now unable to fly. Adonis, the bald eagle, is also the victim of a gunshot wound and his wing needed full amputation.

The caribou you'll see at the centre were rescued from Alaskan islands that were becoming overpopulated. To prevent starvation, some were removed and brought here. It's interesting to note that caribou are the only species of deer in which both male and female grow antlers. Strangely, too, there are actually more caribou than there are people in Alaska!

The aurora borealis

One thing most people like to do on clear and frosty nights is to look for the aurora borealis, or northern lights. The lights appear as ionized gas particles increase their speed and density while stirring in the Earth's magnetic field; this results in curtains of light shimmering in brilliant colours. Not surprisingly, in the old days people thought these lights were an omen and a sign of terrible things to come.

If you don't get to see them 'live' or just don't want to brave such cold weather, then check out the Alaska Centre for the Performing Arts where you can see 25 years worth of rare images in a 40-minute show set to music.

And if you think that being in Anchorage means you're miles from the countryside, then think again. Book yourself onto a horse ride and within minutes of leaving town, you'll be riding in some of the best countryside and scenery around. The four-hour horse ride with Turnagain Trails will take you through the backcountry of Chugach State Park, a 495,000 acre wilderness on the edge of Anchorage that serves as a backyard playground for residents and visitors alike. Enjoy sweeping views of the Alaska Range, Cook Inlet, Mt.Susitna (the 'Sleeping Lady') and Denali (Mt. McKinley). Spruce woods and mountain hemlock along the trail give way to open tundra and jewel-like alpine lakes. Moose, wild sheep and bears are frequently sighted during this short, and easy, horseback adventure: a great experience!

On your visit around town, don't forget to stop off at the Earthquake Park which commemorates the biggest earthquake on American soil, which happened right here in Anchorage. The 1964 earthquake on Good Friday reached 9.20 on the Richter scale, while the 55 aftershocks lasted all weekend and the 12-metre high tsunami wave that followed forever changed the towns of Valdez and Seward. Furthermore, the bill for all the damage so caused totalled $68 million. A peaceful park that overlooks the bay now commemorates the events. You might also be surprised to know that it's Alaska, not California, that has more earthquakes than any other state.

Fans of law enforcement will love the Law Enforcement Museum displaying historic police equipment, a submachine gun, and a restored 1952 Hudson Hornet Patrol Car. Being a law enforcement agent in a state that has a small population of less than 750,000 people, spread out over more than 800 million square kilometres, is certainly a challenge. This is one of the most unusual, rugged and far-flung jurisdictions under the American flag. Admission to the museum is free but check out their souvenirs. This is the only place you'll get an Anchorage State Troopers T-shirt. Just what you need to impress your friends!

As soon as you walk in, though, look for the mug shot of Steve McQueen who was driving dangerously. After his experience with law enforcement, it's very unlikely McQueen got his T-shirt - he no doubt got a nice big ticket and a very embarrassing night in jail instead.

Native culture

From life in the spotlight, to life that went on quietly beforehand, check out the Alaska Native Heritage Centre, just ten minutes from downtown. Life for Alaska's 11 distinct native cultures, who lived from the land and sea, is showcased. You can wander through native village sites and read about traditional lifestyles while Alaska native youths share stories about early village life. On the stage inside the main building - the 'Gathering Place' - you'll be treated to drums, drama, dance and storytelling and see native costumes, while artisans show and sell their admirable wares.

If you fancy trying some fishing just like the natives did as a way of life, you can try your luck at Bird Creek on the road to Seaward. Here you can join the local people fishing for salmon. Fishing for those with a licence facilitates a maximum of three fish per day.

From the river to the lake, check out Lake Hood, the busiest seaplane base in the world. With over 87,000 take-off and landings per year, you can watch them firsthand from the observation deck. In the onsite museum, aviation buffs will find rare aircraft being restored. Alternatively, try your skills with the flight simulator.

While flying is serious business, Alaskans are not without their sense of humour. One sign you'll notice off the main street is a plaque that says:  "In 1897 in this place, nothing happened."

One sure place to find something that is happening is at the Alaska Zoo. Native species at the zoo include a polar bear, brown bears, a rare glacier black bear, moose and many raptors. There are also exotic creatures on view. The zoo has been around for more than 30 years and boasts nearly 100 different mammal and bird species.

While much of the rest of the lower 48 is sweltering in blistering heat, you'll be pleased to know that the temperatures in Anchorage reach a comfortable 60 < F - 15 < C. This is also where you'll find those long, lazy, summer, light nights where the sun sets at 11.30pm and rises at 4.30am.

Alaska has been described as more than a stateÑit's more like a state of mind. It has beauty and wilderness unsurpassed. It has untamed mountains, glaciers, rugged terrain and soaring eagles. This is Alaska and this is Anchorage. Go discover them both.