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Written
and Photographed
by Dr.G. R. Lobley
Rugged mountain scenery and an appealing
climate are enduring attractions for most people.
This is specially so in the Kingdom during summer, when
sweltering temperatures, topping 45ºC, are encountered at lower
altitudes along the coast and in the desert.
The Sarawat mountain chain parallels the
The
average annual rainfall in the mountains is 300 to
Especially along the escarpment rim, vegetation can be rich and
trees found here include extensive juniper as well as occasional
wild olives and some acacias.
The idea of woodlands may seem strange anywhere in
Taif is
a well-known summertime destination.
When we arrived in late May, we learned that the area had
recently enjoyed significant rain over an extended period of about
three weeks. This
presented the exciting prospect of an even greener mountain
environment, as well as flowing water in some of the wadis.
After spending a night at TaifÕs
luxurious Massarah Inter-Continental Hotel, we drove west through
the city, early in the morning, heading for Shafa.
At the lower elevation around the city itself, fresh grass
growth was apparent on all the hillsides as well as profusely
flowering, annual plants.
The thorny acacia trees had also responded well
Ð
their small, yellow, rounded flowers attracting many insects
including several butterflies.
Shafa, at an altitude of
We
explored Wadi Thee Gazal, a very picturesque valley just off the
main road before the final ascent to Shafa.
Stopping by a bridge, we were instantly rewarded with
stunning views of a handsome male African rock bunting in full song.
Walking along the wadi, we connected with several more bird
species including two of the Arabian endemics
Ð
the
Wildflower meadow at Shafa Our
first views from the escarpment rim at Shafa were impressive enough,
though it was already becoming hazy even before 8 am.
On a side road, just off the Shafa loop road, we stopped to
admire and photograph some wildflowers. First, was an attractive
yellow-flowered euryops arabicus shrublet, a common plant in these
mountains. The old,
terraced fields hinted at an ancient history of cultivation in these
mountains. The idea of a
wildflower meadow anywhere in Arabia will seem very strange to many,
but that is exactly what we were treated to nearby, as a beautiful
mass of wild asphodels were at peak flower.
With the aid of Sheila CollenetteÕs
Illustrated Guide to the Flowers of
Mountain adventure to Bani Yazid
Driving
back through Taif, we took the high road towards al-Baha.
In many places this excellent route skirts the escarpment
rim, affording some breathtaking views of the wild wadis way below.
We stopped for a snack about We made
another stop beneath the mighty Jabal Ibrahim ( Walking
along a woodland trail, my companion spotted something move in a
small juniper shrub: we soon confirmed that this was a chameleon,
only the second I have ever seen in Arabia, or anywhere else for
that matter. Although
there was a heat haze on the mountains when we arrived, later in the
afternoon the light quality improved, enabling us to get better
quality pictures of this awesome, rugged scenery. The residents of
the nearby village must really enjoy these wonderful, moody
mountains, especially those with homes situated close to the
escarpment rim. The
vertical drop from the awesome cliffs was difficult to estimate, but
a fairly conservative guess would be that it falls in the range of
500- Dawn panorama from Al-Baha Close to
the superb escarpment road, we stayed overnight at the Al Hokair
resort. This interesting
development comprises hemispherical chalets spread around a
juniper-clad hilltop that directly overlooks the fabulous escarpment
rim. This is really a
summer resort, one that had just opened for the season when we
arrived. Consequently,
we virtually had the place to ourselves and next morning were up
early, eager to fit in some birdwatching within the grounds: birds
seen easily and well included Yemen thrush, Yemen linnet and African
rock bunting. Before 6
am, the cool mountain air was a real delight.
From here, the panorama of the serried mountains extending
west beyond the rim was superb: the dramatic isolated pinnacles of
Jabal Shada were very clear in the dawn light.
I framed a wide-angle shot of this scene and waited until the
rising sun highlighted a small juniper in the foreground, all the
while enjoying the delightful early morning bird song.
Escarpment
descent to Dhi Ain
At the
escarpment rim, the temperature was around a cool 20<C, but during
an exciting 30-minute descent to Dhi Ain, the temperature climbed
rapidly to 32<C. This descent, via an excellent road, provides some
exciting vistas of these wonderful mountains.
Dhi Ain is a remarkable oasis and old village, where various
crops such as bananas and papayas are cultivated beneath the shade
of a tall date palm and fig trees.
Of course, all this greenery depends on a regular supply of
water, which comes from a perennial stream that is diverted to feed
a network of irrigation channels.
Dhi Ain, in Arabic, literally means a place with a spring and
to see small waterfalls beneath the shade of old fig trees is both
refreshing and surprising.
In addition to the valuable crops carefully cultivated here,
Dhi Ain forms an amazing sub-tropical habitat that attracts a
diverse range of wildlife, much with a distinctive African feel.
In the two hours we spent exploring this wonderful location,
we enjoyed superb views of strikingly coloured birds such as the
grey-headed kingfisher, shining sunbird and BruceÕs
green pigeon. The green pigeon has a bright yellow belly and lower
breast, with greyish-green upper parts, plus a purple shoulder patch
that is visible when the bird is seen well.
However, since they blend in perfectly within the fig trees
in which they are normally found, they can be tricky to see and
photograph. We also heard the distinctive piping call of grey
hornbills further up the wadi beyond the waterfalls.
Hamadryas baboons are also found in the area.
Flowering
adenium beneath Jabal Shada
The end of our trip concluded with a closer
look at Jabal Shada, an amazing, isolated mountain west of the main
escarpment. It features
some dramatic and inaccessible pink-coloured, granite pinnacles,
where vultures probably breed.
Two vulture species have been seen here: the griffon and
Egyptian vulture. An
impressive view can be obtained from the rocky wadi bed just off the
main road, but even a roadside view of part of the mountain is also
very striking. Passing the mountain towards al-Mikwah, we checked
the northern lower slopes for a special plant that thrives in drier
areas: the adenium obesum.
Luckily, after several minutes, we located an excellent
specimen in glorious full flower. The beautiful, vivid pink flowers
set against the bright blue sky and the rugged mountain scenery
formed a very memorable natural image.
The base of these mountains is much drier than at the
escarpment rim, but as at Dhi Ain, some wadis with regular water can
still create isolated pockets of lush sub-tropical habitat.
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