Seattle

A Step Ahead in Seattle  

Seattle continues to enjoy galloping growth and its position at the cutting edge of the technology revolution, the city is taking its latest cues from its lush natural surroundings.

By: Chris Winters *

 

Bounded by the Cascade Range and Puget Sound, Washington’s largest city is now embracing green building and may even vote this November to tax itself to pay for mass transit.

But there’s still an element of the old pioneer town to be found, sandwiched between the postmodern architecture and the funky boutiques and coffee shops. (Unless otherwise noted, the area code is 206.)
Start out your walking tour south of Pioneer Square Park at 1 Elliott Bay Book Co. & Café (101 S. Main St.; 624-6600). This large independent bookstore hosts literary events and is a decent place to get your first shot of coffee.
Heading north, you’ll find the first 2 Fireworks Gallery (210 First Ave. S.; 682-9697). This Seattle original sells arty jewelry and tchotchkes for the home. Across the street is the 3 Central (207 First Ave. S.; 622-0209).
In 4 Pioneer Square, you’ll come across 5 Merchant’s Café (109 Yesler Way; 935-7625). The restaurant maintains much of the original interior. Pioneer Square’s Pioneer Building on the northeast edge, the totem pole, and the pergola are all a National Historic Landmark.
Head north and hang a right to reach the 7 Cherry Street Coffee House (103 Cherry St.; 621-9372). At this funky independent java hut, you get your joe in a real ceramic cup. Continue north into the high-rise district, going uphill on Madison to a modernist gem, the 8 Central Library (1000 Fourth Ave.; 386-4636) one of only four major works in the U.S. by Rem Koolhaas’s firm. The best way to experience the library: Take the elevator to the tenth floor and stroll the long, gently sloping spiral walkway down through the book stacks.
Back down the hill and a few blocks to the northwest you’ll come upon the 9 Seattle Art Museum (1300 First Ave.; 654-3100), with the giant “Hammering Man” sculpture outside. This year the museum nearly doubled in size, bringing in new major exhibits and works, such as Cai Guo-Qiang’s “Inopportune: Stage One,” featuring nine Ford Tauruses suspended from the ceiling with light tubes hanging from their bodies.
You’ll soon encounter the crowd in front of 10 Pike Place Market (First Ave. and Pike St.). Tourists love the 100-year-old market, and locals really do buy their produce and flowers here.
One block south of the main arcade are interesting stores such as Undercover Quilts and Lark in the Morning Musique Shoppe (for acoustic instruments). The Sanitary Public Market Building was named for the fact that when it opened in 1910 horses were forbidden inside. The flagship Starbucks café faces Pike Place (note how the original logo has morphed), while even more shops fill Post Alley, including kids’ store Boston Street, where you can nab vintage clothes for the coolest tyke in the hood.
Heading north gets you to Belltown. Local star chef Tom Douglas’s Lola (2000 Fourth Ave.; 441-1430) serves Greek-inspired fare like lamb kebabs.
At Macrina Bakery (2408 First Ave.; 448-4032) you’ll have a hard time deciding between the orange currant scones and the Budapest coffee cake. Finally, make your way to the waterfront Seattle Art Museum Olympic Sculpture Park (2901 Western Ave.).
This former industrial lot has been transformed into a jewel of a public space. When the weather is clear, nothing provides a more dramatic view than Alexander Calder’s “Eagle” backed by the blue expanse of Puget Sound and the snow-topped Olympic Mountains beyond.

  * Chris Winters is a contributor to National Geographic Traveler.