A Mediterranean Dream Vacation

We signed on to sail Princess Cruises’ 12-day Mediterranean Collection itinerary aboard the Royal Princess in early October. Both the ship and the journey proved to be just what we were looking for.

By: Susan C. Shipman *

    The day was warm, the sun bright and gently bobbing boats crowded the harbor. We sat in an outdoor cafe, sipping cappuccinos and looking out over the tiny Marina di Portofino on Italy’s Ligurian coast. On one side of the inlet was a scattering of shops. On the other stood a row of tall stucco houses in a magical array of colors: red and orange, rust and ocher. This, we thought, is what we expected Mediterranean cruising to be about -- and why cruises throughout this expansive and diverse region are so popular with vacationers.
    The Royal Princess joined the line’s fleet last year. In her previous life she had sailed as Swan Hellenic’s Minerva II, an elegant if low-key 710-passenger ship. Princess retained the wood paneling, the large library, the alfresco dining, but dressed her up a bit and added some sparkle. She’s livelier and more fun, new entertainment and a general brightening up.
    But it was her relatively small size that appealed to us the most. The ship has an intimate, convenient feel and we knew where everything was in short order. Our cabin was roomy and comfortable and we used the balcony all the time -- to watch sunsets and to take in the scenery as we approached and left our ports of call, and to just sit and stare at a mesmerizing sea.
    The itinerary, of course, was our most important consideration. With almost 20 countries bordering the Mediterranean, cruisers have their pick of a vast number of ships stopping in ports from Spain to Greece and Turkey. In many cases, the distance between ports is relatively short and itineraries are full. That’s what makes cruising the Mediterranean the stuff of dreams: There’s so much fascinating ground to cover. On our cruise we would embark from and disembark in large cities (Venice and Rome), call at small towns (Ravenna and Portofino, Italy; Split, Croatia; Kotor, Montenegro) and visit islands (Sicily, Capri, Corsica and Corfu, Greece), island-states (Malta) and even a royal principality (Monaco), with one day at sea marking the halfway point.
    Cruising the Mediterranean is also a more economical way to see Europe. With the very strong euro and sky-high hotel and restaurant prices, a cruise paid for in dollars saves you money. Most cruise lines deploy their ships in the Mediterranean from early spring into fall.
    We hadn’t sailed with Princess before, but the line’s reputation for excellent service and well-organized excursions proved to be right on target. Our waitress at dinner was very efficient: she’d advise us on what to have -- and occasionally on what to avoid. Although there were two dinner seatings (Princess has since instituted Anytime Dining to allow freer choices), there were enough alternatives -- an Italian restaurant, a steakhouse and a casual bistro -- that it was never a problem and we could dine when we wanted.
    Shore excursions operated without a hitch, with few lines or large, unwieldy groups. Although getting detailed port information on board wasn’t easy, all the excursions are outlined on the Web, and passengers are encouraged to sign up before their cruise. A long list of tours cater to all sorts of interests -- from faience pottery to Ferraris, from food to history and art – and offer a whole range of time schedules, which allows you to plan as busy or as relaxing a trip as you choose.
    In ports where we could easily walk into town, like Split, Kotor and Monte Carlo, we skipped the tours and went off on our own; in others, when a long drive was required to visit, say, Pompeii or Sicily’s Taormina, we booked the shore excursion and were usually glad we did. The guides were knowledgeable and eager that we appreciate what we came to see. In Malta, a no-nonsense Roberta steered us through unexpectedly huge crowds, determined that we view the Caravaggios in St. John’s Co-Cathedral. In Pompeii, handsome Hugo was equally intent on showing us as much of the sprawling excavated city as possible.
    Whenever you’re visiting the world’s most popular sites, there are bound to be crowds. We’d been eager to see Valletta, the capital of Malta, and its Grand Master’s Palace, but a perfect storm of ship arrivals meant hordes of tourists just like us. In Ravenna we wanted to get a peek at Dante’s tomb (he had died there in 1321 after being exiled from Florence). Again, crowds made it difficult.
    Despite these occasional glitches and the inevitable tourist trappings, the ports were all fascinating and fun, offering the wonderful variety that is the hallmark of the Mediterranean. The mountain-ringed harbor leading into Kotor -- actually one of Europe’s largest fjords -- was a stunning surprise, as were the graceful villa and lush gardens of the Achilleion Palace on Corfu. A chocolate shop near the royal palace in Monaco was so tempting we couldn’t resist and stopped in twice. The view of Mount Etna from high above the sea in Taormina was as breathtaking as a vertigo-inducing drive along the Prunelli Gorges in Corsica. Then there were those delicious pastries we bought on Capri, the incredible Byzantine mosaics in Ravenna and the sights and sounds of the busy street market in Nice.
    When we left the ship at the end of the cruise, I had an unusual reaction. After a vacation, most travelers switch gears and start thinking about what they have to do when they get home. Instead, I thought what fun it would be to get right back on the ship and do the cruise all over again, exploring new sights and collecting a whole different set of Mediterranean memories.

Sea-Worthy Tips

    A smaller vessel is ideal for a port-intensive itinerary, making accessible those places that can’t accommodate the behemoths, and often eliminating the need to board tenders to reach the dock. A larger ship is fine for trips that include more days at sea, when onboard entertainment is important.
    For exciting views approaching and leaving shore, book a cabin on the port side if possible -- that’s the side of the ship usually facing the dock.
    The more research you do ahead of time, the better off you’ll be when deciding what to see and whether to take a shore excursion. Everyone knows whether or not they want to visit Pompeii, but places like Corsica’s Prunelli Gorges are gems you might not want to miss, so read up on them beforehand. Since excursions cost extra, your research will pay off.