Anguilla on $140 a Day

Anguilla has a fine selection of moderate accommodations and midrange restaurants. Furthermore, the local currency is pegged to the dollar, making the island more
affordable than its euro-based neighbors.

By: Louise Callazo

Last February I faced a reader's challenge: create a one-week Caribbean vacation for two on a budget of $2,300. Since the devoted reader was my partner in shoestring globe-trotting, Paul, I was highly motivated.

First of all, we would have to use frequent-flier miles. One of the few destinations available without lengthy layovers was St. Maarten, but we had envisioned somewhere much more tranquil. What if that island could serve as a stepping stone? A few keystrokes later I discovered the ferry to Anguilla. (Several other transfer options are available, starting at double the price.)

Still, I had my doubts, having assumed that the home of exclusive resorts like Cap Juluca, CuisinArt and Malliouhana would be prohibitively expensive. On www.tripadvisor.com, however, I found the $99-per-night Ferryboat Inn (www.ferryboatinn.ai). Further research at the Anguilla Guide (www.anguillaguide.com) confirmed that dining and car rental were within our means, too.

In fact, Anguilla has a fine selection of moderate accommodations and midrange restaurants. Furthermore, the local currency is pegged to the dollar, making the island more affordable than its euro-based neighbors. All the beaches are public, and the weather is gorgeous in May, even though it's the off-season, which ranges from April to mid-December.

But is a low-cost vacation there any fun? Emphatically, yes, and easy, too. From St. Maarten's airport, we took a half-hour cab ride ($15) to the ferry terminal for the 20-minute trip ($15 each). Once on Anguilla, we walked about three blocks to the inn.

Our small one-bedroom apartment was in need of some updating, but it was clean and comfortable. (The large one-bedrooms, however, are very spiffy -- and a steal at $115.) The kitchen was a big money-saver. We also had use of a beach umbrella and chairs, plus a cooler, which allowed us to explore more secluded spots in comfort.

Early the next day Avis delivered a four-wheel-drive Suzuki Jimny ($270 for one week), and our adventure began in earnest. Anguilla's stunning powdery white beaches were delightfully uncrowded. We spent the better part of a day on Limestone Bay, an intimate strand embraced by cliffs, entirely to ourselves. Each morning we packed a lunch and set out for another spectacular beach, where we sunned, swam, snorkeled and strolled. Then back to the apartment to freshen up, and off again to catch the sunset, followed by a leisurely meal.

We enjoyed local specialties at Lucy's (264-497-6253), Tasty's (264-487-2737) and Ripples (264-497-3380), where dinner ran us $100 to $110. That's about what we'd spend in the United States, except triggerfish and conch aren't usually on the menu. A takeout supper from the indispensable Fat Cat deli and bakery (www.fatcat.ai) -- baked ribs and curried goat with sides, plus a coconut tart -- was a bountiful feast. Cristobelle's Canteen (264-772-0459) proved tops in value: A chicken roti platter brimming with rice and peas, salad and veggies was just $6.

We also spent around $30 on gas and $160 on groceries and assorted Fat Cat treats. The grand total for our supremely relaxing eight-night escape was $2,180, or about $140 per person, per night.