Hong Kong
Reaching For The Skies

They say you must always fly into Hong Kong during the day, or else you will miss out
on some amazing views of the dizzying skyline of this teeming metropolis.
We came in during the day—but by ferry, from neighboring Macau.
And the sight was no less breathtaking.

By: By Rufaida Javid*

Hong Kong redefines the notion of a ‘concrete jungle’. Skyscrapers are such an integral part of daily life that no one seems to think anything of living on the 115th floor of a building. A labyrinth of tunnels and flyovers, a world-class metro system, and the ubiquitous red and white Toyota Crown taxis help the denizens of this freewheeling entrepôt go about their business.

More than seven million souls inhabit this city with a land area of just 1,100 square kilometers, making it one of the most densely populated in the world. All these people seem to be united by one common goal: Making money. Everyone appears to be in a hurry. People emerge from the subways, climb down buses and jump off trams in a mad rush of humanity that is oddly exhilarating. No, this is not a place for the faint-hearted.

Hong Kong’s wealth is a result of its total commitment to the free market. Viewed by experts as the world’s most capitalist city, Hong Kong is blessed with an excellent natural harbor and has traditionally been Asia’s trading hub. Though the British left in 1997, handing over the territory to China, not much has changed in terms of economic policies. Under China’s “one country, two systems” policy, Hong Kong enjoys a high-degree of autonomy. Only defense and foreign affairs are Beijing’s purview. The city’s population is 95% Chinese, with other Asians and Europeans accounting for most of the remaining 5%.

The first thing a visitor to Hong Kong must do is take the legendary Star Ferry from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island (or the other way round, if you are on the other side of town). At HK$ 2.50 (SR1.25) it is a bargain, pure and simple. Take off in one direction before sunset and take the ferry again after dusk on the way back.

Once in Hong Kong Island, we did what Kung Fu superstar Jackie Chan—Hong Kong’s most famous son—advised on a blog, and took the special tram (HK$ 45; SR 22.50) up Victoria Peak. The ride itself is unforgettable, with some of the world’s most expensive and beautiful homes on the side of the road. But wait until you have reached the top: The panoramic view from the Peak is unbelievable. Nestled in the midst of green hills, the Hong Kong skyline, surrounded on three sides by the waters of the South China Sea, appears surreal. As daylight gives way to darkness, the neon lights appear, leaving the many visitors at the Peak gazing at the spectacle, with their chins on the railings.

At the Peak Tower you will find Hong Kong’s Madame Tussauds wax museum. Here you have to dish out HK$ 160 (SR 80) to be photographed alongside the good likeness of Jackie Chan, Bruce Lee or even Barack Obama.

Down in Hong Kong Island, we took a bus to Stanley, which hosts a great tourist market and a spotlessly clean beach. It is also the best place to buy cameras. Besides, the bus ride to Stanley, along a long, winding coastal road is also quite enjoyable.

A favorite with some tourists is the Hong Kong Disneyland, a joint venture between the Walt Disney Company and the Government of Hong Kong. The park is located on HYPERLINK “http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_reclamation” “blocked::http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_reclamation Land reclamation” reclaimed land off
HYPERLINK “http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lantau_Island”“blocked::http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lantau_Island Lantau Island” Lantau Island.
The entry fee is HK$ 350 (SR 172) but it is not good value for money. However, being much smaller in size than that in the US, it is easier to navigate, especially if you are with children.

The old heart of Hong Kong is the Kowloon district, where the famous Kai Tak airport used to be. I was always fascinated by the vivid descriptions of a friend who flew into the city in the mid-1990s, and spoke about having seen couples squabbling over mundane issues and families sitting down for lunch—all from the window of a descending aircraft. (Now, of course, Hong Kong has a new, bigger and flashier airport on the other side of town).

The Tsim Sha Shui district is Kowloon’s tourist hub. It is also the most diverse part of Hong Kong. A visit to the infamous, dilapidated Chungking Mansions tenement in the area can be a revealing experience. Here, you will be forgiven for thinking that you are in Delhi or Lahore or Abuja. South Asian businessmen and dealers from West Africa dominate trade. Everything appears shady! It is believed that until recently nearly 25% of all mobile phones sold in sub-Saharan Africa had passed through Chungking Mansions.

Tsim Sha Shui district is also home to Hong Kong’s largest mosque, the Kowloon Masjid and Islamic Centre. It was established more than 100 years ago, to serve Indian Muslim soldiers in the British army stationed in Hong Kong. But since then, it has changed location (on the same road) and can now accommodate 2,000-3,000 worshippers. The mosque is jam-packed on Fridays with Muslim residents, tourists and businessmen from all parts of the world. Sermons are delivered in Urdu, English and Arabic.

* Rufaida Javid is a freelance writer based in Dubai