Edinburgh

Gateway to Scotland

Perched atop a series of extinct volcanoes and craggy rocks with the sheltered shoreline of the Firth of Forth to the north, the city is dominated by its fairy tale castle. The Royal Mile trickles seawards in a ramble of perfectly preserved medieval buildings. Author Daniel Defoe described the Royal Mile as the most beautiful street in the world. It is hard to disagree, especially on a sunny winter's morning when a blanket of snow glistens over the cobblestones leading down to Holyrood Palace.
Historically Edinburgh did not become Scotland's capital until the reign of David I (1124-53 CE). Previously the capital had been further north on the edge of the Highlands, at Scone near Perth, where the Scottish kings were crowned, seated on the Stone of Destiny, and later at Dumferline over the Forth in Fife. There are Iron age remains at Arthur's Seat, a rocky outcrop near Holyrood Palace, and the Picts had a stronghold in the 5th century CE on the site of Edinburgh Castle.

Central Edinburgh has two distinct districts, north of the castle Rock the stately Grecian style New town was built during the Age of Reason. In marked contrast, the Old Town with its winding alleyways and crowded closes, is decidedly Medieval, evoking the world of Dr Jeckyll and Mr Hyde. The city's moniker Auld Reekie, harks back to the days when the old town was crowded with tenement buildings and lacked sewerage.

Princes Street lies at the heart of the new town and is easily one of the dramatic thoroughfares in Europe. Its unobstructed views across to the castle are remarkable and the sunken gardens are a great place to relax in summer. The area is also home to many shops as well as the Scott Monument, the National Gallery of Scotland, the National Portrait Gallery, the Museum of Antiquities and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.

North of Princes Street is a graceful complex of streets, squares and crescents, a striking example of 18th century CE town planning, described by the Pelican History of Arts as the most extensive example of a Romantic Classical city in the world. The elegant style is best seen at the Georgian House, 7 Charlotte Square, where the National Trust for Scotland has reconstructed and example of how the first residents of these houses lived.

Parallel to Princes Street is George Street, hub of the financial district and home to several cutting edge fashion shops. The stately thoroughfare, which crests the contours of the New Town, has some of the most ornate rooflines in town, with domes, turrets and cupolas bordering the sky. At its eastern end is St Andrews Square with the headquarters of the Royal Bank of Scotland housed in a handsome 18th century CE mansion.

Across Princes Street and adjacent to Waverley Station is the magnificent Edwardian Balmoral Hotel. This is the place to go for a relaxing morning coffee break while perusing the Scotsman newspaper before heading up volcanic Caton Hill to explore some unusual Grecian showpiece architecture. The area was built to celebrate British victory in the Napoleonic wars and has been described as a Georgian Acropolis. Certainly it is one of the best places to view Edinburgh and explore the Burns Monument, City Observatory and unfinished National Monument, modelled on the Parthenon.

Complementing the more traditional charms, the city boasts a modern range of attractions including the world-famous Royal Yacht Britannia. Edinburgh fought off numerous rivals to become the stately ship's home and you can pop down to Leith for a guided tour of what must be one of the most luxurious vessels in history. To get there take a bus which runs every 15 minutes from Waverley Bridge or hop in a taxi.

First port of call is the visitor centre for royal family album shots and film clips of many voyages from honeymoons to the Hong Kong handover and China reunification. Then all aboard to see the dining rooms, galleys, bedrooms, garage which houses the Rolls Royce Phantom, and quarterdeck where royal toddlers splashed in the paddling pools. While in the area don't miss Leith's showpiece Neoclassical buildings and waterfront bistros which lie in or near The Shore, a road along the water of Leith just before it enters the Firth of Forth.

The history of Edinburgh is bound up with its Castle perched dramatically atop sheer volcanic rock, often against a background of torn cloud. Originally constructed in the 12th century CE, the castle has been rebuilt several times. Today the imposing Great Hall is still used for banquets and has one of the finest hammerbeam ceilings in Britain. Visitors may also enter the cramped room where in 1566 Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI of Scotland, who, as James I, was the first Stuart king of England.

The Royal Mile that runs from the imposing esplanade is the location for the Tattoo held during the Edinburgh Festival. This royal promenade, dotted with spires, turrets and crenellations was the hub of city life until the end of the 18th century CE and is still a busy place today. Along its gentle downhill route are fine examples of 16th and 17th century CE houses in Scotland. Many are courtiers' houses leading to the Palace of Holyrood, the official residence of Her Majesty the Queen when she is in Scotland.

Lying in the shadow of Arthur's Seat, this baroque palace is closely associated with Scotland's past. Mary, Queen of Scots, married Lord Darnley there and made the Palace her home between 1561 and 1567 CE, witnessing the of her private secretary in the outer chamber. Today the royal apartments are regularly used for ceremonies and official entertaining and are finely decorated with magnificent works of art from the Royal Collection.

Also set spectacularly against the backdrop of Arthur's Seat, the Dynamic Earth Centre traces the development of human life using a Time Machine.  This relates to the story of time from the first sign of life in the primordial swamp to the present day. Visitors are led through a series of natural phenomena: a torrential downpour in a tropical rainforest, volcanica explosions, with a shaking floor plus the big chill of Antarctica complete with a giant iceberg.

After the virtual volcano step around the back to marvel at the real thing. Soaring high above the marquee-like roof of Dynamic Earth are the long Salisbury Crags, part of Edinburgh's igneous heritage. Climb the path that leads you from just outside Dynamic Earth along the base of red cliffs and onto the tufted Turf Summit of Arthur's Seat for Amazing views of the Pentland hills, the firth of Forth and the coast of Fife.

Back near the Royal Mile the Museum of Scotland offers an epic history of the Scottish nation from prehistoric times to the present day. As well as such priceless treasures as the Lewis chess pieces, the museum showcases many objects of everyday life including some 300 chosen by the public for having the greatest impact on the 20th century CE. There are bottles of Irn Bru soft drink, a pair of trainers worn by TV presenter Kirsty Wark and a milk bottle with a note sent in by Sean Connery. But the piece de resistance is a replay of the golden goal kicked in injury time by Andy Irvine in the 1974 CE international rugby match against England which turned defeat into sweet victory.

The state of the art museum also boasts a roof terrace offering some of the finest views of the city skyline along with The Tower restaurant where you can sample Scotland's fabled Black Angus Beef. Still on the subject of food Edinburgh's cultural renaissance is most clearly seen in the city's eating establishments. The Balmoral hotel's chef's tasting menu at Number One is the place to go for fine dining. Make sure you are hungry before tackling the eight-course special which includes wild salmon and raspberry souffle. Arabic food can be found at Marrakesh, Laraz, Palmyra and Phenecia.

Stac Polly which is all of dark colours and tartan is noted for Haggis Filo Parcels with Plum Sauce while the Doric is an Edinburgh institution using fresh local produce and is popular with journalists from the nearby Scotsman. If it is afternoon tea you are after don't miss Kennington's, another local institution, set in Jenner's department store. This is where Edinburgh ladies meet (they will be the ones wearing hats!). Contemporary Italian cuisine such as lamb and roast veg, black olives and rosemary can be found at Missoni's Cucina. For top vegetarian dishes with a contemporary twist try Hendersons. And Cafe Royal Oyster hotel has ornate Victorian decor and excellent seafood.

The top hotel in Edinburgh is the well-established Balmoral on Waverley Bridge. Next in line is the Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa near the castle and Princes Street. If you love designer elegance try the Scottish capital's newest five star hotel, the Missoni on King George Bridge. Mid-range hotels include Grosvenor Gardens near Haymarket Station and Halcyon on Royal Terrace. Budget travellers can stay at Edinburgh University halls of residence during school holidays or the Youth Hostel on Leith Walk
For unusual gifts to take back home head for Princes Street, home to all the usual High Street shops, along with the aforementioned Jenners, Scotland's flagship department store, which is still in family ownership. For haggis try MacSween of Edinburgh just on the outskirts of the city, and for cheese Ian Mellis stocks all the Scottish varieties. Interested in aquiring your own Highland dress? Clan Albanach kiltmakers near the Forth Bridge specialises in made-to-measure kilts. And to go with your new purchase Kilberry Bagpipes makes highland, chamber and small pipes in its own workshops. Other good local buys include golf clubs, tartan cloth, cashmere shawls and sweaters, crystal, china, pipes, silver jewellery, pewter, Scottish gemstones and not forgetting Edinburgh rock!

'The Festival' is used to describe August's extravaganza of festivals varying in size and impact. Coming alive with colour and sound, the city is in constant motion for a month; animated by the thousands of shows and events taking place, with performers taking over the streets and everything from a shop window to a New Town garden becoming an official venue.
The Edinburgh Festival Fringe includes the much celebrated comedy festival which is a recognised hotbed of new talent from around the world. As well as the big names there are many deals and discounts guaranteeing good value. August also sees the International Festival, the Book Festival, Jazz Festival, Art Festival, Television Festival as well as several more celebrations taking place across the city.

These include the Islam Festival at Edinburgh Mosque, officially known as King Fahd Mosque. Centrally located near the University and the Museum of Scotland, the mosque was opened on 31 July 1998 CE ( 8-Rabi al-thani 1419) by Prince Abdul Aziz bin Fahd. The Islam Festival features an exhibition, lectures, tours, and workshops. And on site the mosque kitchen serves halal lamb barbecue,, chicken kebabs plus dahl, vegetable curry, samosas and falafel. You can dine alfresco and to wash it down there is exotic mango and sugar cane juice.

The Military Tattoo is an awesome sight which once seen will never be forgotten. With a cast of over a thousand, prepare to be amazed as Edinburgh Castle's esplanade is taken over each night for three weeks by marching bands, display teams, drill regiments and performers from all around the world. And of course there are lots of fireworks displays during and at the end of The Festival, as well as at Hogmanay (New Year) too.

If you have time to spare consider a visit to the affluent town of St Andrews across the Firth of Forth, which is spanned by a spectacular rail bridge. Scotland's oldest university town and centre for golfers from all over the world is set on a wide bay on the northeastern coast of Fife. For a dramatic view of cliffs and sea, clamber over the site of the medieval castle, which has been invaded and captured many times by the English, Scottish and French. Highlights include abandoned mine shafts dug by guards to meet tunnels being burrowed by attackers and a dark, dank dungeon.

Over at the links five courses, the Old, New, Jubilee, Eden and Strathtyrum (plus a nine-hole course for beginners) provide for players of the royal and ancient game at every level. Indeed anyone can use the Links clubhouse and restaurant. A daily ballot is held at 2pm for the next day's start times at the prized Old Course. For those prepared to take their chances on the day there are often gaps that need to be filled, although be prepared to join the queue early. And if you decide to stay over the Fairmont St Andrews and the Old Course Hotel are the most comfortable places in town. Happy golfing and exploring too. Och aye!