Ushaiger Village
The Name's Blond!
Barely 200 kms from Riyadh, lies a village deeply steeped in history, its narrow alleys and mud houses blissfully ringing the glories of the past. Called Ushaiger, which means 'blond', the village beckons the discerning tourist with a welcoming smile from that playful child darting in the silence of the night or that pensive old man seated in deep thought somewhere down the lane.
By Vinod Menon
Photos Gerald M. Sarto
Often referred to as the 'Womb of Najd' for having reared many well-known families of Saudi Arabia's central region, Ushaiger seeps an air of mystic tranquility, even as the visitor is approaching the ancient village. Nestled in the Al-Washim region, northwest of Riyadh, its 5,000-odd residents are proud of their ancestry, dating back to the pre-Islamic era. Once called Eiqil after the name of the oldest tribes of the peninsula, the village got its present name from its serene locale. 'Ushaiger' literally means 'blond' – which explains why the village, with sandy-brown limestone mountains nearby, got its name.
The village's rustic, geometrically-shaped houses, in the midst of a vast oasis of desert palms, are a delight for any freak of nature. It is one of the oldest villages of Najd and was a major stopping point for pilgrims coming from Kuwait, Iraq and Iran to perform Haj or Umrah.
Ushaiger prides itself for providing the Kingdom several prominent men of letters, including the renowned religious reformer Muhammed bin Abul-Wahab, Islamic scholar Sheikh Al-Otheimiin, and a galaxy of poets and thinkers. With its twin town of Oneizah, it may well be described as the center of enlightenment in Najid that can be likened to Sienna in Italy, or Marburg in Germany.
Historical Ushaiger belongs to the Tamim tribe, although other tribes have also lived here. It is also home to many important families in the Arabian Peninsula, including Al-Elsheikh, to which Muhammad ibn Abd-al-Wahhab belonged, and Al-Thani, who are today's rulers of the State of Qatar.
The village folk's repertoire of folktales and legendary proverbs is remarkable. Kids are often told of the 'Mottawa of Ushaiger' love tale. It recounts a local Cinderella romance between a rich imam and a beautiful, poor girl that ended in a secret marriage and an equally secret son. As it always happens, the secret was uncovered by a jealous well-to-do gossiper.
As the story goes, the man was abducted by the woman's clan members who felt disgraced by the hush marriage. They threatened him with death and sought to also get rid of the woman and her child. But when the abductors came to check on the grief-stricken man, they found him dead. Next to him was a piece of poetry written by him in blood, eulogizing his wife's grace and beauty. This story is seen at times symbolizing the love the sons of Ushaiger have for their beloved village.
Ushaiger has given an unusual gift to the legal community – its unambiguous drafting of legal documents. The Sabih's Will', an inheritance legal document pertaining to donations made to charity written about 200 years ago, is used to this day.
In Riyadh, a market known for its reasonably-priced goods and run honestly by traders from Ushaiger, bears the name of the village. It is now located in the renovated part of the city center.
Ushaiger is among the very first tourist destinations around Riyadh to be recognized and approved by the Saudi Commission of Tourism and Antiquities. The historical site has been subjected to extensive restoration plans in recent times. The ancient terracotta houses and pathways are now been renovated with the help of local artists and businessmen. Their objective is simple – to restore its early glory. Much to the excitement of the simple village folk, the village is humming with a frenzy of renovation activity, and has found itself pushed into the limelight of modernity.
Not only are the people of Ushaiger hospitable and friendly, they are conscious of their rich heritage. In fact, it is due to the deep love for their home that they have decided to contribute their own funds for the renovation of the village. They have also opened a museum to showcase a variety of relics from the village.
Thanks to these efforts, the village today has a renovated market center, a house of heritage, many small paraphernalia museums, a welcoming Majlis (guest room), a library, and a camping park with all modern facilities on top of one of its scenic hills. The old areas have even been used as locales for film and TV shootings.
For a great day excursion or an overnight stay, in a region abundant in history and hospitable people, hit the road to Ushaiger.