Riyadh
The Smiling City
of Past and Present
By Vinod Menon
Photos Hisham Shamma
Saudi Arabia's capital city is one of the fastest growing capitals in the world and a symbol of Saudi Arabia's almost overnight change into a nation of the early 21st century. It's the land of smiles where the friendly populace is what instantly strikes a visitor Stroll along a busy mall or simply take a walk down the corner shop, you are most likely to be greeted by the traditional greeting, salaam alaikum. The greeting, "Peace be with you," showers every bit of warmth that the unknown, smiling Saudi could ever pour on a visiting stranger. In fact, Saudis are sociable people and have no reservations in breaking into small talk with foreigners. It might even take awhile for any visitor to understand the explicit friendliness of the Saudi people.
Riyadh belongs to the ancient Najd region. While the tribes of yore may have moved on to other regions of Saudi Arabia, their affection and affability pervades every aspect of Saudi society. With a population of around 5 million, Riyadh remains the heartland of the country's seat of power and business, rich in history.
Downtown District
Downtown Batha is not exactly a spot that would notably figure in any tourist literature. But a visit to the district will elicit the best of the city – a mishmash of everything traditional as well as contemporary. With a large concentration of expatriates, Batha quite brings out what Saudi Arabia really is – a welcoming nation cheerfully open to foreign societies.
What immediately strikes the visitor is the unique shopping fare that Batha has to offer – from dingy discount stores to fancy malls selling the best of international brands. Walk into a store and the infectious Saudi smile and greeting will endear you, never mind even if it radiates from a humble, expat retailer.
Historical Sites
Batha abounds in historical sites. It is here that the famed Masmak Palace, Qasr Al-Hakm and the King Abdulaziz Historical Center are located.
The Al-Masmak Palace is perhaps the most important historical monument in Riyadh. The palace reminds one of the rich cultural heritage of the Al-Saud dynasty. From this palace the founding of the Kingdom was launched at the beginning of the last century.
Qasr Al-Hakm, yet another important landmark, encompasses the governorate of Riyadh. This huge complex reflects a blend of modern and old architectural style. It took several years to develop and comprises commercial and cultural centers and other facilities for the benefit of residents and tourists.
The King Abdulaziz Historical Center is the latest addition to the rich collection of the monuments of historical and cultural significance. Its comprehensive library, rich museum, art and craft galleries, auditoriums and exhibition centers, all speak of its richness and glamour. Picturesque parks, gardens and orchards have been added to signify the cultural importance of this center.
Ancient Riyadh
A drive north, about 30km from the city center, lies Riyadh's most fascinating attraction, the ruins of Al-Diraiyah. This was Saudi Arabia's first capital and is now the country's most popular archaeological site. The reconstructed ruins include palaces, mosques and the city wall.
The buildings are made of mud, straw and seashells. The colorful doors at the entrances of the buildings are made of wood; these doors operate with a unique slide-and-lock mechanism designed centuries ago. Inside the buildings, the ceilings are crossed with beams of tamarisk logs and palm fronds, allowing light and air to pass through.
Situated on the banks of Wadi Hanifa, Al-Diraiyah is set amidst stunning landscapes and scenic surroundings. The wadi is itself an environmental, recreational and tourism resource – a must-see for any curious visitor.
'New Riyadh'
While Batha is part of the old city, and Al-Diraiyah denotes ancient Saudi Arabia, Olaya and Sulemania districts could well be called 'New Riyadh'.
Nothing symbolizes the 'new' here as does the Computer Market, a hyperactive showpiece of Saudi Arabia's place in the electronic, wired world. With a collection of the best computer systems from the east and west, the market does tell of Saudi Arabia's firm footing in the computer age.
A few paces away stands the 875-foot architectural wonder, Al-Faisaliah Tower. The tower, which is part of the sprawling Al-Faisaliah Center, was built in 2000. It has altered Riyadh's skyline as never before, becoming an icon of grandeur and an exclusive address for the elite. Speaking proudly of
Al-Faisaliah, Lord Norman Foster, the UK architect who designed it, has been quoted as saying, «Image is always an important part of my design philosophy. The opportunity to create Riyadh's and Saudi Arabia's first skyscraper was also a tremendous responsibility. I wanted to come up with a concept that was not only original but one that the community would be proud of in years to come.»
Down the road northward, comes another iconic image of modern-day Riyadh – the Kingdom Center. It is located in the ever-growing business district of Olaya. The award-winning skyscraper has the famed, 65-meter-long Sky Bridge, a steel structure on top of the 300- meter height tower, rising 918 meter above sea level and overlooking the whole of Riyadh. A trip to the Sky Bridge passes through two elevators. The first elevator will take about 50 seconds to reach the height of 180 meters to the transfer level, and the second elevator will take less than 40 seconds to reach its final destination, the Sky Bridge. Its unique position undoubtedly makes it one of the most important, contemporary places of attraction in Riyadh.
For children
A visit to Riyadh will not be complete without a day exclusively allotted to the children – at the Riyadh Zoo. Set in the central Riyadh district of Malaz, the zoo features a variety of animals, birds and reptiles – some, like the oryx and the horned sand viper, exclusive to the Middle East region.
One can move around the zoo in a mini train or walk around in the lush green setting. There are designated rest areas, toilets, tea kiosks and restaurants offering a variety for the entire family. The specially-allocated family days make the outing a fun-filled affair, with the jolly greeting of salaam alaikum often rendering the air with warmth and friendship.
Whether it is ancient Riyadh or the ultra-modern city of today, the city simply fails to drop its smile. The Riyadhite often considers it an honor to care for others more than for himself; and what better way can he do it than with a simple, warm smile – the smile that spells it loud:
Ahlan Wasahlan, welcome!