Day Trip from Tunis to
Beautiful Bizerte
 

Northern Tunisia’s second largest town after the capital, Bizerte has grown into an attractive resort, though thankfully one untouched by package tourist hordes. Scattered along the Corniche are hotels
facing golden beaches backed by sand dunes. And even better you can easily visit this beauty on a day trip from Tunis.

Photos and written By: Veronica Maria Garbutt

 

To get there take a taxi to to Tunis’ Bab Sadoun, an original gate of the original walled city north of the centre. Here you can catch a louage, a shared service taxi, usually a minibus, which leaves when it is full of passengers. The fare is an unbelievable TD 5 (less than US$ 5) for the ninety minute journey. Heading northwards you will find fields of wheat, wooden farmhouses and herds of cattle grazing.
The landscape of the Merjeda Valley is almost Alpine, more what you would expect in Europe. In winter the mountain peaks are snowcapped. West of Bizerte lies Tabarka, the second resort of the north. During the 16-18th centuries CE these two towns were major trading ports. Today coral thrives in the warm Mediterranean waters.
The sight which greets arriving visitors can only be described as tantalizing. A port area island is surrounded by sea and canals with boats bobbing on the waters is reminiscent of Venice in Italy. A golden kasbah lies near a striking mosque and streets of white walls and blue painted doors and shutters. In springtime vendors sell geraniums for perfume and mountains of colourful vegetables and fruit in the busy souk. French style cafes surround the central area making the scene reminiscent of the early 20th century CE Riviera.
It was the Phoenicians who founded the port and dug the first canal link from inland Lake Bizerte to the sea. Then came the Romans who first destroyed, then rebuilt the town calling it Hippo Diarrhyus. In 678 CE the Arabs arrived and changed the name to Bizerte, and under the Hasfids its prosperity grew when it had a fine hunting park. Later the Spanish, Turks and French tussled over it, and eventually the French made it their main naval base.
So beloved was Bizerte by the French that they did not leave it until 1963 CE - long after independence.  But at least they set up some industry which has today been expanded to include a steel mill and refineries. A 15 metre high bridge over the channel has a middle section that opens up to allow large vessels into the port is a well-known landmark. Some commercial fishing out at sea brings in catches of mainly mullet, sole and bream.
To get a flavour of the town visit the Great Mosque built in 1652 CE.  It has a minaret built in Turkish style and its octagonal shape and hanging balconies are distinctly contemporary Tunisian.  To the east of Bouchoucha Square is Youssef Bey fountain, constructed in 1642 CE.  Within an Andalusian arch is an inlaid inscription in English and Arabic inviting users to drink until the waters of paradise become available.  At the Zaouia of Sidi Moktar, the headquarters of the local Save the Medina Association, there is a map showing Bizerte as it was in 1881CE.  and on Rue des Armuriers the Zaouia of Sidi Mostari can be found.
Next perhaps stop for lunch at Le Petit Mousse on Route de la Corniche overlooking the ocean.  Then visit the aforementioned Fort d'Espagne, built in the 16th century CE by the Pacha of Algiers. Just below the fort  a large Roman-style theatre is used for concerts during the Bizerte Festival.  Held annually from mid-July to mid-August, the celebrations include international music and song.  It also incorporates a dedication to Sidi Selim.
Most of Old Bizerte, the medina follows Boulevard Hassan el Nouri up to the fort, and spreads down a hill to the kasbah.If you are interested in marine life a visit to the Oceanographic Museum is a must. Finally don’t miss the Andalusian quarter, home to another mosque and two cemeteries, and the beach at Rimel along the Corniche. Nearby at Ras Angela are more beautiful beaches and if you head out to Cap Blanc you will find yourself at Africa’s northernmost point.
Should you decide to spend the night Bizerta Resort and the Corniche Hotel are the top places to stay. And Le Petit Mousse, which has a good atmosphere and a touch of class, offers 12 rooms. A recommended mid-range hotel is Sidi Salem which lies just below the Kasbah. And Hotel Club Yalta, also suited to those on middle-sized budgets, is centred on a plant-filled courtyard and has a large pool and some guest room balconies with sea views. For rock-bottom priced accommodation it is hard to beat the Maison des Jeunes or Centre de la Jeunesse de Rimel Plage.
For upmarket dining Le Sport Nautique at the Port de Plaisance does excellent oysters. Du Bonheur is another stylish place with good value set menus. For traditional dishes try La Cuisine Tunisienne. Another cool place for local food is L’Aviation which serves up grilled lamb and chicken at affordable prices. And for a special treat head up the Cornice to Cap Blanc, a garden restaurant where there is live music on weekends
Should you fancy a spot of surfing Club Nautique rents out surfboards and offers other watersports, while the Corniche Hotel also does waterskiing. Some of the hotels organize horseback riding while others have bicycles for hire. And for shopping check out the merchandise at the National Handicrafts Centre on Quai Khemais beside the old harbour.
While in the area don't miss the chance to see Lake Ichkeul, a World Heritage-listed national park.  A habitat for fish and bird life, it is also home to mongooses and otters.  Indeed Jebel Ichkeul was a royal hunting ground in the 13th century CE and even today it is carpeted with flowers in springtime.  For birdwatchers and ecologists there is a small museum with information on the working of the lake's ecosystem.
On the return to Tunis you can visit the ancient site of Utica which predated Carthage as the first Phoenician trading post on the coastline. Before the Merjeda River silted up, the town was briefly capital of Roman Africa.  The Maison de la Cascade has the best ruins - a luxurious villa,complete with a pool in the central courtyard, mable flooring and fish-themed mosaics.
If you have even more time to spare and fancy another day trip, the Roman city of Dougga, the largest and most dramatic site in Tunisia, is a good choice. It was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1997 CE, so is well worth a visit.  Thurburbo Majus was a Berber Carthaginian settlement years before the Romans arrived. And other Roman ruins can be found at Bulla Regia, Chemtou and Zaghouan.
Also in the area the town of Testour, built in  Islamic Andalusian style, is another day trip possibility. It was formerly home to many Spanish Muslims and is noted for its Great Mosque with its distinctive octagonal minaret set in jasmine perfumed gardens. All these gems that can be reached in one or two hours from Tunis.  And you can get there by louage (shared service taxi) easily and inexpensively.