The Grandeur of Geneva
Set beside a beautiful lake Geneva is an outward-looking, serene and elegant city. It's modest size belies its importance on the world stage. Cosmopolitan and dynamic, it is the seat of over 200 international organisations including the World Heallth Organisation and World Trade Organisation. Diplomatic and administrative flair are the city's hallmarks.
Photos and written By Veronica Maria Garbutt
For Muslim visitors a highlight is the Islamic cultural Centre or Big Mosque of Geneva near the airport founded by King Faisal and opened on June 1 1979. The Islamic Centre of Geneva is also known as The Little Mosque. It is the oldest Islamic centre in Europe and can be found at 104 Rue des Eaux Vives on the south bank.
Geneva’s first settlement can be traced to 2000 and it became a Roman City under Julius Caesar. Its strategic location on the banks of the River Rhone made it popular with invaders from Franks to Carolingians, Burgundians, Merovingians and Germanic emperors.
By the 16th century the city became a republic and in the 18th century intellectual life was flourishing. Philosopher Jean Jacques Rousseau, painter Liotard, writers Voltaire and Diderot were Genevans either by birth or adoption. In 1798 Geneva was annexed by France, but after the overthrow of Napoleon, unification came in 1815. In 1863 the Geneva convention was signed, limiting the effects of war. The city became a centre of peace and commerce, including the making of watches, chocolate and cheese – and banking.
Islamic wealth management in Geneva has been an important destination for capital flows from the Middle East for over 60 years. One of the earliest steps in Sharia-compliance came mainly as the result of an initiative by Prince Mohammed al Faisal. It saw the opening in 1981 of Dar al Maal al Islami which is more an investment company than a bank near the airport.
Geneva is best explored on foot as most central places of interest can be reached within 20 minutes. There is also a convenient well-run transport system and if you stay at a city hotel there is a free Explore Geneva travel card for guests. The left bank is crowned by the old walled city perched atop a lofty hill, overlooking the more modern centre.
A grid of waterfront avenues comprises the shopping district on the right bank. It is home to most of Geneva’s grand hotels and several international and Islamic banks including Faisal Private Bank. And centred on Place des Nations, just 1.5 km north is the international area, home to the UN, Red Crescent and other world bodies.
One of the city’s great landmarks is the harbor with the jet d’eau – water jet. Today it is Geneva’s emblem and can be seen from afar. A good place to start exploring the city is Quai de Mont Blanc which offers great views of the surrounding mountains including Mont Saleve, Voirons and Mole.
Walk along the promenade and then hop aboard one of the tour boats for a jaunt around the lake. Another popular aquatic activity is relaxing at the Bains de Paquis, a jetty with swimming and people-watching. There is also an indoor outdoor pool, sauna and Turkish Baths. A little west of Pont du Mont Blanc lies the pedestrianised Pont des Bergues. Midway along this bridge there is a footpath linking it to Ile Rousseau, a small garden island. Here you will find a memorial to the Geneva philosopher and there is an open air restaurant with magnificent views of the city.
Next, take a stroll in Le Paquis, a small, multi ethnic district around the main Gare Cornavin train station with lots of halal restaurants and an engaging street life. Choose from Le Diwane, 6 Rue de Zurich, for Arabic cuisine; Al Amir, 3 Rue Chaponniere for the best Lebanese mezze; and El Mektoub, 5 Rue Chaponniere for tasty tagines and couscous.
Time now to explore the International District. A 15 minute walk north takes you to the giant Place des Nations. Here there is a 12 metre high three legged chair artwork with one leg missing. It was installed by an organisation devoted to helping landmine victims. Across the road is the European headquarters of the United Nations, a logical first stop on a visit to this area.
Peacocks still roam in the grounds of the impressive palace which houses the UN – it was donated by the Revilliod de Rive family in 1946 on condition that these magnificent plumed birds could continue to strut here. Take a tour which lasts an hour and takes in the Council Chamber, decorated with peace murals, and the Grand Assembly, where you may see delegates at work. Adjacent is the Ariana Museum which has a fine collection of pottery including the earliest earthenware piece, a 9th Century Mesopotamian bowl, along with Delft, Meissen, Chinese and Japanese styles.
Across the road is the must-see International Red Crescent Headquarters. Here an interactive museum depicts the history of this humanitarian organization. During the Russo-Turkish wars of 1870 – 1875 the Muslims flew their flag of a red crescent on a white background for the first time. Also in the neighbourhood lies a Who’s Who of international bodies including UNHCR ( UN High Commission on Refugees) and WHO (World Health Organisation).
Time now to head south crossing the Mont Blanc Bridge. A good photo-stop is the multi-coloured Flower Clock, a monument to Geneva’s watchmaking business. It lies at the edge of the Jardin Anglais, a pleasant place to stroll on an early summer evening when families are out in force. Walk along Gustave Ader Promenade, the home of marinas, moorings, docks and alfresco cafes. This is a fine place to relax over coffee and ice cream – and watch the ferries come and go.
Heading along the walkway towards the Eaux-Vives district you will encounter 1930s style architecture with two large waterfront parks. After wandering through these rose and rhododendron-filled gardens you can enjoy a halal meal at Bombay restaurant. 
Across the street lies Geneva’s Islamic Centre, Europe’s oldest. The ‘Little Mosque’ as the centre is known was founded in 1965 by Said Ramadan and occupies a small whitewashed house with green shutters. The lower level has been converted into a Mosque and there is also a classroom used for Qur’an studies and Arabic lessons. Classes and conferences on Islamic subjects are open to the public and there is also a well-stocked bookshop.
Geneve Plage (Beach) lies on the outskirts of the left bank and comes complete with a giant waterpark, an Olympic-size swimming pool and waterslides for the children. Highlights of the old town include the Natural History Museum, the Grand Theatre, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the upmarket shops along the Rue de Rhone – Louboutin,
Bulgari inter alia.
After perhaps, purchasing your Swiss watch here, check out the Horology Museum, dedicated to the science of measuring time as well as the Genevese art of enamels. Before leaving the area be sure to visit the Patek Philippe Museum. Don’t miss the Calibre 89 watch boasts 33 functions, two faces, eight discs, 24 hands and almost 2,000 parts! Top end accommodation right in the centre beside Pont du Mont Blanc is the Four Seasons hotel des Bergues. The city’s first hotel, it has been a landmark on Lake Geneva since 1834 guest rooms, designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, are richly elegant with all mod cons. Il Lago restaurant serves the best breakfast in town and to burn it off make for the fitness centre to work out on cardiovascular equipment and strength machines. Nearby, set slightly back from the lake, is the doyenne of Geneva hotels, the chic Rocco Forte Le Richemond Geneva.
If wellbeing and swimming are your interest check into La Reserve Hotel & spa. Located in a park beside the lake not far from the UN area, the hotel which is all of granite, marble and oiled mahogany, has two swimming pools – indoor and outdoor - along with a full service spa. The Michelin-starred restaurant Le Loti is the place to sample perch from the lake – the hotel even has its own fisherman.

A good mid range hotel is Le Montbrilliant, a welcoming place housed in a 19th century building. It is most convenient for the station. Also in this price bracket is Mon Repos, a traditional hotel opposite a park of the same name near the UN and other international organizations. If you are on a small budget try the City Hostel Geneva or Luserna Hotel
If you have half a day to spare take a bus or taxi out to Cologny, a refined suburb with country lanes and woods 6km from town. It is home to Geneva Golf Club and a somewhat esoteric attraction the Biblioteca Bodmeriana. Here the private collection includes Persian illuminated manuscripts and decorated Qur’ans. Alternatively take the bus to the village of Veyrier, walk over the border into France and take the cable car up Mont Saleve. At the top are footpaths - and crosscountry skiing in winter. And if you have a little more time to spare, do visit Lausanne especially the the Renaissance style town hall and old houses of Place de la Palud and the Olympic Museum. Should you decide to spend the night the place to stay is Lausanne Palace. Or at least try to sample dinner at the hotel’s Table d’Edgard. Alternatively, atmospheric accommodation right beside the lake is Chateau d’Ouchy. This former medieval castle features rooms with lake views, a restaurant specializing in fresh fish, a pool, hammam and sauna. From here it is just a short hop to Montreux of Chatelard Castle, the Covered market and Montreux Palace Hotel fame. Or you could take a boat across the lake to enjoy a round of golf at Evian Masters Golf Club set in a former royal park. And perhaps overnight at the family-friendly Royal Hotel, which has a three pools, a spa, tennis courts and its own kid’s resort . So everyone will be happy. Bon Voyage!
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