At its core is a medieval old city, a labyrinth of streets dotted with Gothic buildings. Beyond this is some of the world’s most unusual architecture and sculpture, particularly the works of modernista Antoni Gaudi and surrealist (later realist) Joan Miro. Founded by the Carthaginians around 230, Barcelona became a Roman colony under Emperor Augustus in the 1st centure. Barcino, as it was then known, was a small settlement on Mons Taber hill. Later after a period of Visigoth domination, the city became known as Barjelnah. In 801 the city came under the control of the Carolinian Franks.
In 988 Cataluna became independent and Barcelona was rebuilt under count Borrell II. A period of wealth and splendor followed and the counts of Barcelona became kings. Strong commercial ties developed from the 13th century. Splendid Gothic buildings arose from the remains of Roman monuments.
When King Fernando ascended the Aragonese throne in 1479 and married Queen Isabel, Barcelona became part of Castille. The trade focus moved to the Atlantic and the city declined. By the end of the 18th century the population had tripled and a new industrial wave based on cotton production and export revived the economy. The foundations were laid for La Rambla and Barceloneta and by the late 19th century the city absorbed the former townships of Les Corts, San Marti de Provencals, Gracia, Sants, Sant Andreu de Palomar, Sarria and Horts. Many important events led to major changes in the city’s infrastructure. These included the 1888 Universal Exposition, the 1929 Universal Exhibition and the 1922 Olympic Games. The latter saw the down-at-heel waterfront burst to life with beaches, promenades, marinas, restaurants, new housing and leisure facilities. The main recent development was the building of Montjuic with gardens, museums, and Spanish style buildings. It stands as a symbol of the prosperity of the city since the enormous success of the 1992 Games.
Barcelona’s history lives on today in its many neighbourhoods, or barrios. Often centuries-old settlements they have been drawn in by the city’s growth under the Cerda Plan. This was a grid plan conceived by architect Ildefons Cerda in the 19th century Some of these ancient districts still boast the character of the villages they once were.
For most visitors Barrio Gotic (Gothic Quarter) holds the most charm. The boundaries to this old quarter are Plaza Cataluna, Avenida Laeitana and Las Ramblas. The latter, some of which has been pedestrianised to encourage tourism, is made up of five ‘rambles’ and is crammed with shops, museums, fancy eateries and boutique hotels. Don’t miss the Picasso Museum on Calle Montcada for works of the artist’s blue Period. Las Ramblas is the main route linking the old Town with Plaza Cataluna and gets its name from a stream (raml in Arabic) that once flowed here. Celebrities favour Le Meridien Barcelona set in the heart of the action right on La Rambla. The hotel boasts 233 luxurious soundproofed guest rooms with spacious bathrooms composed of an artistically etched glass chamber. Large suites with private terraces are located on the top four floors. And overlooking the buzzing Las Ramblas the Centonze restaurant and lounge is a good place to relax and dine on Mediterranean cuisine.
Guests can enjoy the pool and spa facilities of nearby Holmes Place. And the hotel can arrange a round a of play at Club de Golf Masia Bach or Golf Sant Cugat, a few kilometres away. One of Spain’s oldest and most exclusive clubs, this Par 69, 5121 metre course was opened in 1914 . In this old city don’t miss exploring the Roman walls on the southwestern side of Plaza de Roman Berenguer Gran and the City History museum. Also take a leisurely 45 minute walk down to the port. Depending on the day there will be kiosks with flowers, birds and other small animals on display. Other ramblers, the occasional entertainer or drama students posing as statues are sure to catch the eye. About halfway down near Boqueria Market (well worth a visit) is some pavement art by Cataluna’s greatest artist Joan Miro. A recommended dining option in this barrio is El Salon. It has tables outside so you can dine alfresco in the shadow of a Roman wall. Within are velvet couches, wicker chairs, candles a-plenty and a Gaudi-influenced chandelier. Delicious and different dishes are served here including lamb kebabs, botifarra and beans and Galician cheese ice cream(!).
The small barrio of Gracia lies at the end of the Avenida of the same name. Its leading fiesta , San Medir, is celebrated by horsemen riding down Gran de Gracia tossing sweets to the crowds. And west of the main street is an early turreted Gaudi house. More flamboyant Gaudi architecture can be found in Parc Guell, La Pedrera and Casa Gautilo.
Originally a bank on Passeig de Gracia the Mandarin Oriental hotel oozes old style charm with a modern twist. Life centres on the Blanc Restaurant, originally the trading floor and now home to a bistro serving Mediterranean Asian fusion cuisine. For fine dining Moments is a Michelin starred Catalan eatery. And there is a rooftop pool with dining too.
Along with 98 rooms there are four types of suite including Mandarin Junior, Terrace, Barcelona and the Penthouse. This apogee of private luxury offers 2 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, an office, kitchen and living/dining area. Just south of Gracia and running about 1km north east and west of Plaza de Cataluna is L’Eixample (the Enlargement), designed by Cerda. It was the answer to the old city’s overcrowding and today is home to Park Joan Miro and some of the city’s plushest hotels, restaurants and shops. In this area probably the most elegant, exclusive hotel, popular with heads of state, is Hotel Rey Juan Carlos I. Located on Avenida Diagonal, it is set in its own lush gardens with swimming pool and jogging track. The 432 guest rooms have all the latest innovations and several types of suite are available, including three Royal Suites. The Royal Club Fitness offers a luxury spa and gym which is rated as one of the world’s top ten. And my favourite place to dine – alfresco beside the pool – is The Garden Restaurant. Here the food is seasonal with an Italian twist, and the place has all the feel of a relaxing resort – and regal too. Also located in L’Eixample – on Carrer de Pau Claris – Hotel Claris is one of the most fashionable hotels in town. Located in a former palace, it offers 120 guest rooms and several types of suite. A museum within the hotel showcases over 400 works including millennia-old Egyptian works of art, engravings commissioned by napoleon Bonaparte plus mosaics and Roman sculptures from the 2nd and 3rd centuries.
Claris also has a hidden gem of a rooftop garden pool...bliss during the hot summer months, as does its brother hotel in the area, Granados. Beside the pool La Terraza del Claris restaurant does award-winning treats including grilled lobster and wagyu steak with courgette flowers. It is a fine place to while away a balmy summer evening. If you miss Arabic food make for Mesopotamia at Calle Verdi 65. This Iraqi restaurant has all items on the menu including samak tapsey, kubuh helab, potata chap, hummus, fattoush, fulmedames, burak beul jeban, fish, tabbouleh, rice and Arabic bread at a good value prices.
For shopping, head to L’Eixample’s main avenue, Passeig de Gracia for Spanish luxury brands Loewe and Tous, and nearby Antonio Miro for Catalan fashion on Corseil de Cant. El Corte Ingles department store in Plaza Cataluna is a good place for fashions, accessories and sporting gear. And don’t miss the malls L’Illa, Maremagnum, Diagonal Mar and Barcelona Glories. The former fishing quarter of La Ribera is full of charm with its Gothic architecture and narrow passages. Leading southwest and sloping down to the Mediterranean, Barceloneta and the Ports offers a seaside ambience to city dwellers. Port Vell has a fine aquarium and two marinas. Barceloneta is the old sailors’ barrio which offers beaches with watersports and a pedestrian walkway which runs northwards to Port Olimpic. Naturally lively waterside cafes and restaurants abound here. If you like the area the place to stay has to be the recently opened W Barcelona hotel, said to be Barcelona’s answer to Dubai’s Burj al Arab. It affords spectacular views and the lobby, terraces and restaurant are masterpieces of design. Bravo, the signature eatery, is at once informal yet traditional. Overseen by native chef Carles Aberran, the fish, seafood and meat are cooked over different types of wood – it all depends on the suitability of the aroma! Room styles available include Wonderful, Mega and Fabulous and there are four suite types on offer. The Extreme WOW Suite located on the penthouse floor has a 59 sq m outdoor terrace with Jacuzzi designed by internationally renowned local architect Ricardo Bofill. Inside, the 360 degree view of the Mediterranean is shared by 3 bedrooms. Lying just north of Port Olympic, Vila Olimpica is a modern district with broad avenues, landscaping and direct access to Nova Mar, Bella Beach and three others. It was built according to Cerda’s grid plan to accommodate atheletes participating in the 1992 Games. It also offers parks, a movie theatre and a marina. The hilly district of Montjuic offers respite from the crowded city centre and is home to some top museums and galleries. During the 18th century the unusual shapes of the rock were an inspiration to artists and sculptors. During the 1929 Universal Exhibition the slopes were planted in the French style by landscape architect Jean Claude Nicolas Forestier. Attractions here include the Museo Nacional d’Art de Cataluna, the Fondacion Miro, Poble Espanol, the Olympic Ring and the views from the castle. For easy access to the castle take the teleferic (cable car). Afterwards you can walk down to Mirador Gardens and take another cable car over Port Vell to San Sebastian beach. This is highly recommended as the views are stunning.
And at the beach you can relax and watch the sun go down over the water before retiring to one of those jolly alfresco restaurants for some seafood. Best Bet is Agua on Passeig Maritim right beside the beach. Here you can relax on a wide terrace while sampling home-made pasta with prawns and monkfish with tomato onion sauce. www.aguadeltragaluz.com. Tibidabo, a 512 metre high peak to the north of Barcelona, provides yet another welcome break from the city. To get there take an FGC train from Cataluna metro station to Avinguda de Tibidabo. Then, in summer, a tram runs to Plaza del Doctor Andreu where you can hope on a funicular to the top of the hill at Plaza Tibidabo. In winter, catch a bus instead. Unsurprisingly the view is spectacular and there is the added fun of Parc d’Atraccions which has lots of old-fashioned rides including a ferris wheel and carousel.

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