“There is a buzz in Doha,” said a recent survey of the Gulf’s top ten business cities. “It has replaced Bahrain as the No 2 slot after Dubai.” A place where east meets west, this former pearl fishing centre has been transformed by oil and huge reserves of natural gas. And it has had the foresight to diversify into other sectors including financial services, chemicals and tourism.
Mass tourism is being eschewed in favour of cultural developments that preserve Qatar’s rich Arabic traditions. Nowhere is this more evident than in Doha’s changing skyline. For decades the pyramid-shaped structure of the Sheraton hotel dominated West Bay. Today however the Qatari capital is being courted by multinationals, international banks and regional investors. So that area has been transformed by dazzling skyscrapers that are home to national oil, gas and telecoms companies, banks, financial institutions, embassies, hotels and government ministries.
Some of the most iconic structures along Doha’s appealing Corniche are IM Pei’s inverted pyramid Museum of Islamic Arts, Santiago Calatrava’s ultra light Photography Museum and Arata Izokazi’s futuristic National Library. Another ambitious project is The Pearl in West Bay Lagoon. Built on reclaimed land it will be home to New Doha’s International airport, three luxury hotels, four marinas plus restaurants and residential apartments galore.
The Greek historian Herodotus identifies the seafaring Canaanites as Qatar’s original inhabitants. But evidence such as pottery shards, flint spearheads, burial mounds and rock carvings reveals that the peninsula was occupied as far back as 4000 BCE. By the 2nd century CE the Greek geographer Ptolemy mentions Qattara on his map of the Arab world, and by this time pearls and dried fish were major exports. Later came the Romans and Sassanids and in 628CE Al Ala al Hadrami arrived as Prophet Mohammed’s envoy. The Qataris converted to Islam and the first of the Muslim Arab dynasties ruled the area from Damascus. During this period Qatar was famed for breeding camels and horses. Then came the Portuguese and later the Ottomans followed by the British. Independence came in 1971 CE. Doha was once overshadowed by the trading port of Al Zubara on the northwest coast, but has been the de facto capital since 1847 CE. Today Al Zubara is a well-preserved example of an 18th century CE merchant town. Doha is compact and easy to explore. Start your visit at the Museum of Islamic Art, a spectacular geometric tiered structure, accessible by both land and sea. Here you can feast your eyes on one of the world’s greatest collections of Islamic Art, textiles, jewellery, rugs and artefacts. Cross over the Corniche past the Central Bank and you will come to the spiral shaped Qatar Islamic Centre, modelled on the mosque in Assarah, Iraq. Here free courses – an introduction to Islam, Arabic language and culture – are held. Art lovers might continue on to the Arab Museum of Modern Art, there to get an insight into the work of regional creatives. This bright, airy and inspiring meeting place is housed in an old school and includes a sculpture park. From there a visit to Kattara is a must. This enormous, ambitious cultural village includes an ampitheatre, heritage centres, art galleries, libraries, cafes, restaurants and markets. If you plan to visit after December 2014 CE be sure to see Qatar National Museum which is being almost completely rebuilt. The new museum’s innovative design by Jean Nouvel is inspired by the desert sand rose. It grows organically around the original museum in Fariq Al Satata Palace which was built in 1901 CE. Other places of note nearby are the Diwan Building, the Pearl Monument, Clocktower roundabout, Doha Fort and Heritage House. The latter is an excellent example of a badgir (windtower), used as a way of cooling a building in the days before electricity. Fresh air is caught and channeled down to the ground floor rooms, and is further cooled by stretching damp fabric across the base of the tower. Take a break stretching out on a diwan and cushions, enjoy an Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom at Café Asharg, and watch the world go by. Then, time to explore Souk Waquif, the quintessential restored covered market which sells everything from perfumes, spices, and Qatari national dress to camel blankets, shoes and kitchenware. Don’t miss seeing the scribes, who type out letters and official documents in Arabic for those who cannot read or write the language. The Gold Souk is behind Al Ahmed Street has dazzling displays of 22 carat gold. And sometimes Bedouin jewellery is on sale. Souk al Dira is the place for fancy fabrics, beaded textiles and ornate lace. Stalls at the Omani Market offer dates, mats, baskets, pottery, nuts and honey from the region. And the fish market on Halul street is the place to see fresh gulf fish and shellfish being traded. The Halul coffee house nearby is the place to drink chai. Other markets include the Falcon Souk, the Animal and Bird Market and the Secondhand Market. The latter is known as Souk al Haray and is held on Fridays off Almansoura Street. It is a great place to find quirky antique items. Otherwise Doha is very much a mall city and includes the Middle East’s largest – City Center Doha – which has 350 shops along with a bowling alley and ice skating rink. Others include Landmark Mall, Hyatt Plaza, Villagio (with gondolas on waterways!) and the new Pearl Doha.
Top-end hotels are not hard to find. My favourite, the Ritz Carlton Sharq Village and Spa is built in traditional low-rise whitewashed Arabian style. Set in an extensive garden planted with abundant palms and flowers, it enjoys an attractive seaside location - with its own beach - and the Gulf’s largest spa. The property is also home to several restaurants including Al Dana which specialises in seafood, Al Jalsa - a great place for coffee, light meals and afternoon tea and Al Wanis, an alfresco rooftop terrace with private gazebos. The Sheraton Doha is something of an institution as the city’s oldest five star hotel. All rooms overlook the sea and facilities include a private lagoon and a beach with sailing school, swimming pools, spa, gym, tennis and squash courts. The top-floor Al Shaheen restaurant enjoys some impressive views and is a great place some Arabic food in great surroundings. Just beyond the Corniche in the new West Bay Diplomatic Area the landmark Four Seasons was influenced by Spain’s Alhambra.  Set on its own beach it also offers indoor and outdoor pools and a separate spacious spa and hydrotherapy center.  One of the city’s top hotels it is conveniently located for the Qatar International Exhibition Centre and City Center Doha. Several restaurants can be found in this 18 storey neoclassical building including the fine dining Il Teatro.  Andin the cooler months there is a churrascaria on the beach. Recently opened luxury hotels include the InterContinental Doha City Centre and the St Regis. The latter offers the Astor Grill and Gordon Ramsay restaurants- both halal.
In the mid-range are Hotel Souk Waquif and Al Bustan while budget hotels include Al Nakheel and the New Capital.  While in Souk Waquif be sure to dine at Tagine, a Moroccan restaurant, and over at The Pearl don’t miss Burj al Hammam for top Lebanese cuisine. On the sports front there is Khalifa Sports City, home to Khalifa International Stadium, the Aspire Academy and Hamad Aquatic Centre. All have hosted several international events. At Al Shaqab Stables there is a breeding centre and extensive equestrian training facilities. Bedouin traditions are kept alive through camel racing, falconry and Arabian horsemanship. Non members are welcome to play a round at the 18 hole, 7,312 yard par 72 Doha Golf Club. Here the lush fairways and greens were created in the desert in the 1990s CE by the planting of grass, 5,000 shrubs, 10,000 cacti, 1,300 palm trees and 10,000 other trees. Doha’s position on the coast close to the sand dunes makes for some lively activities from big-game fishing, scuba diving, dhow trips and dune-bashing in 4 x 4s. the two landscapes meet at the spectacular Khor al Adeid, the Inland Sea. Here you can camp in the cool breezes and sample Bedouin hospitality under the starry night sky.

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