Paris for a
MUSLIM VISITOR
Beyond the familiar sights of the Champs Elysees, Louvre and the Eiffel Tower there is much of interest for a Muslim visitor to the French capital. Lying on the Left Bank next to the Jardin des Plantes, the Paris Mosque dates back to the 1920s. The great minaret piercing the sky is a reminder that Islam is alive and well here.
Veronica Maria Garbutt
Naturally Friday is the busiest day as the faithful flock to pray in this striking building. Most are North Africans who work or study in Paris. But go on a Sunday and you will encounter many culturally curious Parisians paying the entrance fee or Euro 3 to explore the gleaming mosque with its white cupolas, magnificent gardens, washing places for men and women plus the adjacent library, dispensary and Theology Institute.
The Paris Mosque dates back to 1920 when Si-Kaddour Ben Ghabrit, President of the Society of Burial Grounds and holy places, founded the Muslim Institute. Located in Place de Puits de l’Hermite near Metro Monge in the Latin Quarter, the building was funded by both the French government and the generosity of the Arab countries. The white and green mosque with its 26 metre high minaret was inspired by the Alhambra in Granada, Spain and Bou Inania Madrissa in Fes, Morocco and designed by architects Robert Fournez and Maurice Mantout. Highlighted by marble grille work and decorative arches, the complex was a labour of love by and army of Moroccan, Tunisian and Algerian workers.
To assist and encourage local Muslims to learn to read the Holy Qur’an the Society of Burial Grounds and Holy Places runs a Qur’an School at the Theology Institute. Teaching aids such as CDs and books are also available to Muslims at subsidised prices. Qur’an reading classes for children and adults are held on Fridays and Sundays along with Arabic classes. And students are encouraged to use the library which has on its shelves over three thousand books covering subjects such as Al-Qur’an, Al-Taurhid, Al Figh, Shari’ah, Islamic laws and jurisprudence.
In addition to this the library also provides books for children to assist them with the help of their parents, to acquire basic knowledge on Imam and the life of the Prophet Mohammed.
Turn the corner into Rue Geoffrey St Hilaire and another surprise – a cavernous Arabian complex awaits the adventurous visitor. It is home to a garden area, Cafe Maure, where you can cool off drinking refreshing mint tea under the fig trees. If hungry, you can sample the delights of the halal restaurant which include traditional dishes of Moroccan couscous, tagines, lamb and rice, kebabs and kofta. This Middle Eastern corner also boasts a hammam where you can relax and recharge. It is an oasis of tranquillity with tiled columns, fountains and steam baths. Other hammams in the capital include the central and luxurious Les Bains du Marais and the budget Hammam du Medina Centre in northeast Paris. Next door to Cafe Maure is an Aladdin’s cave style shop selling everything from brass trays and cardamom coffee to abbas and henna. And there is an Islamic bookshop to be found in Place de Puits de L’Hermite too.
If you have children in tow take them now through the Jardin de Luxembourg to L’Institut du Monde Arabe. This futuristic building lies beside the River Seine overlooking Ile St Louis. Here you can immerse yourself in Arabic arts and culture. And there are plenty of ‘hands-on’ activities for children too.
Calligraphy now holds no secrets for Karim and Abdullah, two ten year old juniors who visited IMA recently. With a little help from Ahmed they trace the downstrokes and upstrokes with the nib of their sharpened reed, or calamus. Last week they moulded a clay tablet and wrote a message on it with their engraved cylindrical seal, thereby reliving the work of the ancient scribes on the banks of the Nile. Fatima and Yousef, a couple of six year olds, are guided around a Tunisian exhibition by their leader Abdullah. They jot down their impressions and make freehand sketches. Back in the studio they finish off their drawings with water colours before choosing to listen to Bedouin stories, decorating Syrian ceramics and being introduced to Lebanese singing by Leila. Nearby, a group of ten nine year olds are discovering a map of the Arab world with flaps to lift to describe each country. Young visitors come in groups of up to twenty eight to learn about themes such as: Saudi Arabia, Egypt, the Desert, or The Spread of Islam in the Middle Ages. Older people like you and me will probably have to make more than one visit to IMA to fully cover all that is on offer. This futuristic building designed by Jean Nouvel, Gilbert Lezenes, Pierre Soria and Architecture Studio which opened in 1987 has become part of the Parisian landscape. Its aluminium and glass structure enhances the play of light and shadow, filtered through mashrabiyah style steel shutters which open and close according to the degree of daylight. The design was insired by North African palaces – a ‘grand projet’ indeed. The imposing structure has been described as a ship with a pointed bow anchored on the riverbank. It is at once both dark and luminous, obscure and open. Open, that is, to those who enter between its high walls as if traversing a solemn, introductory passage before becoming immersed in the mysterious, distant and yet familiar world of Arab culture.
On the north side throught the shimmering effect of the blinds, barges can be seen moving up the Seine. On the south side the patio is plunged in sunlight and shade, a favoured spot for visitors who go there to reflect in the tranquil atmosphere. For you and me there are guides to show us around, bringing to life the exhibits of ancient costumes, valuable scrolls, jewellery and ceramics. The artefacts retrace the history of Arab-Islamic civilisation starting with the first flints sharpened over a million years up to today’s modern art. Reveals Jassim Mubarak from Dammam, “I particularly liked the contemporary art examples of cane and painted furniture by the Algerian designer Yamo and the cave dweller paintings of Tunisian artist Goulder Triki.” Photographers too can have a field day capturing the decisive moment in displays such as “Chosen Expressions from the Caravanserais in Tangiers” or “African Encounters”, while researchers can choose from 50,000 works in six languages including “The Description of Egypt by Napoleon’s Soldiers.” Should you prefer to explore images and music check out Espace Video et Son, an audio visual centre tucked away on the lower ground floor. Here you can get yourself comfortable in a private booth and click away through films, music pieces and over twelve thousand photos from twenty one countries. And should you input any notes during your session, you will find them automatically printed out as you leave. This research facility is nothing if not innovative.
On the top floor you will find Noura restaurant and terrace which serves up mouthwatering Lebanese cuisine in elegant surroundings. And, needless to say, there is an amazing view over the River Seine. There is also a cafe on the ground floor if you fancy something light to eat. And what more is on offer at IMA? Well, there is Arabic language training at several levels to help you better understand Middle Eastern cultures. And young lawyers from France’s National School of Magistracy come here to study Islamic Law. There’s even a biennial Euro-Arab Book Fair and a shop selling all manner of Holy Qur’ans and guides to Arab countries as well as hefty illustrated tomes on Islamic art and architecture, literature and cookery. A wide selection of children’s books can be found as well as CDs and DVDs. But the best selection of all is music, with popular singers, instrumental and religious themes. Says Mohammed Kanoo of Manama, “ I was amazed to find Fidjeri songs of the Bahraini pearl divers along with songs and poetry of the Bedouin from the Arabian Peninsula. This is the most comprehensive selection of Arabic music I’ve ever come across.”
The IMA is located at 1 Rue de Fosses-St-Bernard and open daily except Monday. To get there take the Metro to Sully-Morland or Maubert Mutualite. It is also within walking distance of the Mosque. Try to time your visit during one of the film or music festivals or when there is a concert, dance show or poetry reading such as a recent Algerian one. It staged a panorama of Algerian song, contemporary music, folklore and rai, a fusion of North African and western music.
After all that strenuous exploration you’ll be ready to head over to Rue de la Harpe to recharge tired batteries with cardamom coffee and a round of gooey pastries from the Tunisian patisserie. Halal food is available at the new Shangri La Hotel Paris which has a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower. And if you want to stay centrally Le Grand Intercontinental Paris also does halal food upon request. This magnificent hotel just next to the Opera, is fabled for it’s Café de La Paix. Other hotels nearby include W Paris and Westin Hotel Vendome.
A good place to meet up with friends, family or business contacts is the Afternoon Coffee at Hotel de Vendome. It is served in the stylish restaurant along with mouthwatering cakes, sandwiches and other delicacies. And if you would like to stay in the Latin Quarter, Relais Villa Cristina is a good choice as it is just off St Germain des Pres. Hotel St James has the feel of the countryside as it is set in pretty gardens not far from Etoile. It also has Middle Eastern touches in the décor and furnishings – lots of silks, cushions and polished brass. And best of all is the heartwarmingly hot hammam – separate facilities for men and women of course. Bienvenu.
And back to a favourite French subject now…La Cuisine. There are over 130 halal restaurants in Paris. My favourites include the gastronomic Pavillion on Ave Marceau, Opera on Boulevard des Italiens and Montrarnasse on Boulevard Montparnasse. This Lebanese eatery also has tables set alfresco so you can dine on delicious mezze and more amid the greenery. Bon appetit!
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