Naples is home to some 6,000 Muslims and two Islamic centres, Imam Bukhari Mosque near Piazza Mercato and Zayd Ibn Thabit Association. The latter welcomes newcomers, provides legal and medical help, runs Italian classes, assists transient workers - and much more. And one of the most prestigious institutions for Arabic studies in Italy, Orientale University Centre for Arabic and Islamic studies, can be found here.
Neapolis was founded by the Greeks in 474 BCE. Some 150 years later it was in Roman hands, favoured by emperors Tiberius and Caesar as an escape from ruling in Rome. Later under the Byzantines it became a duchy, then an independent dukedom until taken by the Normans. The German Swabians built the university and later, under Spanish administration, the arts flourished.
The historic centre is a colourful blend of Greco Roman ruins, markets, artists’ studios, washing strung out to dry, operatic staircases, busy trattorias and lively street life. Two parallel east west streets Via Bendetto Croce and via San Biaglio de Libral form the core. Highlights of the old town include the Orientale University and the Porta Nolana market… Here greengrocers, fishmongers, bakers, pasta purveyors and Chinese merchants noisily vie for trade. Nearby in Piazza Museo Nazionale the magnificent National Archaeology Museum displays one of the world’s finest collections of Graeco Roman artifacts.
To the north is Via Tribunale and to the south, the seafront. Built during the Norman era, Castel dell ‘Oro is Naples’ oldest castle. Be sure to climb the ramp inside to reach a platform with great views of the bay below. Nearby is Molo Bevellero, the terminal for ferries to Capri, Procida and Ischia. A little further east Stazione Maritima is the place to board a long-distance ferry to Sicily and beyond.
Naples’ streets are maze-like, so it is a good idea to operate from a base. Mine is Piazza Plebescito, Naples’ largest public square. To the north is Via Toledo. From this busy shopping street a right turn will take you to the Centro Storico. To the left is the Funiculare Centrale which will take you up to Castel Nuovo and Vomero. Westwards like the districts of Chiaia, Santa Lucia and Posillipo. Housed in a striking palace above the city the Museo di Capodimonte displays one of Italy’s richest collections of Renaissance art, upon which Islamic culture had a significant influence. It is located in a sprawling park.
Time now to take the Funicular Centrale to Piazza Fuga in Vomero. This hilltop location is home to Castel Sant’ Elmo and the National Ceramics Museum, also located in a pretty park. With its pedestrianised streets and cafes frequented by the denizens, Via Scarlatti is a fine place to wander, drink a coffee and watch the world go by. Shops focus mainly on household goods and bookshops, the latter catering to the local literati. From Vomero take the Funiculare di Chiaia to Via Domenico Cimarosa in Chiaia.
Here you can go shopping for Valentino and Prada before strolling through the Giardini Publici which have spectacular bay views. Beyond lies the Royal Palace in our base Piazza Plebiscito. Although the palace was built in 1600 the Bourbons extended it in the mid 18th century and the French sculpted the interiors in the present Neoclassical style.
Legendary luxury accommodation can be found at the Grand Hotel Vesuvio built in 1822. It is located on the Santa Lucia waterfront which has spectacular views of the Castel d’Uovo opposite. On the top floor is a roof garden restaurant named after opera singer Enrico Caruso, a favoured guest. Also top end is Grand Hotel Parkers which is all of enormous chandeliers, antique paintings and statues and period furniture.
If you prefer a rural setting, but still within the city limits, the upmarket Montespina Park hotel is located in a 30,000 sq m wood. It is an oasis of calm with citrus and secular trees, a giant open air pool, sprawling gardens and a childrens’ playground – all set on the site of a former Roman spa. A good mid-range option is the quiet and quirky Ausonia Hotel in Mergellina. And a Liberty-style house on the road up to Capodimonte, Villa Bruni B & B is an excellent budget choice.
Neapolitan cuisine is known beyond Italy for its freshness and use of olive oil, pasta, tomatoes, mozarellla cheese and lemons. And the city is the home of pizza. In the Centro Storico try the original Sorbillo, run by a third generation family of pizzaiolo.
For seafood such as linguine al cartoccio (pasta with mussels, clams and tomatoes cooked in foil) dine at O’Munaciello nearby. Il Caffe Arabo on bohemian Piazza Bellini is an excellent place to relax over mezze. And the Montespina Park restaurant specializes in Mediterranean dishes which can be enjoyed indoors or out. For halal dining check out Al Quds on Via Torino near Garibaldi Station.
It is said that no stay in Naples is complete without exploring Pompeii. The best way to get there is on the Circumvesuviana line from Garibaldi station, a journey of about 45 minutes. In 63 CE an earthquake hit the area, burying everything under a layer of lapilli and killing thousands of people. Today 44 of the 66 hectares of this World Heritage Site have been excavated and visitors can wander freely over much of the site.
Towering darkly over the city and surrounding area Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano on the European mainland. Declared a Unesco biosphere reserve, the volcano attracts thousands of visitors every year. You can even walk right up to the rim of the cone and peek into the depths. The easiest way to get there is to take the bus from Piazza Anfiteatro in Pompeii. On the return to Naples be sure to visit Herculaneum whose treasures are said to be even greater than the remains at Pompeii.
Back on the Circumvesuviano line, Sorrento lies some 45 minutes south of Pompeii. Since the grand tourists of the 18th century the town has been a popular resort. Multi coloured pontoons, tiled domes, geraniums and wisteria, lemon trees and green hills are a tantalising sight. A sunset stroll in the seaside Villa Communale garden is a must as is dinner at La Favorita. A glass house restaurant with an orange and lemon garden, this is the place to enjoy white bean soup, and home made pasta with seafood.
The top hotel in town, Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria, is a luxury establishment of exclusive style and elegance. Set in a 20,000 sq m garden the hotel has spectacular views of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. Over the years it has welcomed kings and queens, presidents, artists and celebrities. Indeed there is even an Enrico Caruso Suite with marble flooring, brocade walls and antique Louis IV furniture. The Terraza Bosquet is a fabled Michelin starred restaurant which uses citrus fruit from the hotels orange and lemon trees.
Also at the top end Hilton Sorrento Palace has a well equipped fitness centre, outdoor pool and all weather floodlit tennis courts. For informal dining guests can enjoy a Neapolitan pizza, salads or ice cream alfresco at The Pagoda. Or savour seafood like smoked swordfish or shrimp risotto at the stylish Sorrento restaurant. In the mid range are Hotel Central which offers a splendid gym with many classes and large open air pool and Hotel Cristina. Perched atop the hills with stunning views of the coastline this sunny hostelry serves delicious orata fish in its rooftop restaurant. For budget travellers Ostello de Sirene on Via degli Aranci is the place.
Steps down from the Piazza Tasso lead to Marina Piccola, the port from which ferries depart to Naples and Capri. So you can either return to Naples by boat or visit Capri which has long been a favourite of artists and writers. Everyone from roman Emperor Tiberius to writer WH Auden has been captivated by the island’s beauty. Don’t miss the Blue Grotto, best visited at night.
Should you decide to stay overnight or longer Villa Le Scale is an exquisitely restored 19th century aristocrats home. Now open as a hotel it has an alfresco restaurant on the greenery-draped terrace where you can enjoy Caprese salad, freshly grilled fish or gnocci with radiccio, mascarpone and roast walnuts. If you have time go on to visit the islands of Ischia, known for its calm and quiet, and Procida, whose architecture is influenced by the 18th century when neoclassical styles were fashionable. And be sure to dine in the garden of La Pergola.
Back on the mainland other towns of interest in this charming corner of Campania include Positano, Ravello and Amalfi. Here the Hotel Luna is housed in an historic cloistered building perched high above the sea. Indeed the Amalfi coast is one of Europe’s most breathtaking with dramatic cliffs and terraces of lemon groves sweeping down to the sea. And on the return through Rome be sure to stop at the halal Lebanese restaurant Mandaloun near Via Veneto. Buon Viaggio!

Main Page	Page Up
عربي