Who has not heard of Versailles, the most sumptuous chateau of all, which has gardens that are works of art in themselves. Fontainbleau, meanwhile, is small in comparison, but its gardens, parks and grand canal are all free for visitors to explore. And an international business school gives the elegant town a vibrant edge. Other day trip possibilities include Malmaison, Vaux-le-Vicomte, Dijon, Strasbourg and Tours. Bursting with history, medieval quarters, flower markets and enticing restaurants and gateway to the Loire Valley, Tours was described by writer Honore de Balzac as being’ more beautiful, fresh, flowery and perfumed than any other town in the world.’
First we are off to Versailles. To get there take the RER C5 line from Metro La Defence Grande Arche to Versailles Rive Gauche. On Mondays the palace is closed and Sundays are usually extremely busy. Whatever day you choose, go early to avoid the crowds as up to 8,000 people visit daily. In 1661 King Louis XIV attended a party given by Nicolas Fouquet to celebrate the completion of his new home, the Palace of Vaux-le-Vicomte. So opulent was the chateau that the young king decided to go one better. He planned to build the largest and most extravagant palace in France.
Architect Louis Le Vau embellished Versailles original building, a hunting lodge built during Louis XIII’s reign. He transformed the wet marshland into lush groves, fountains, parterres and terraces. In 1670 Jules Hardouin-Mansart took over as principal architect after Le Vaux’s death. Together with painter and interior designer Charles Le Brun and landscape architect Andre Le Notre he transformed the palace into the Versailles we know today. In 1979 Unesco listed it as a World Heritage Site.
Visiting Versailles might seem overwhelming if you only have a day. A good plan is to follow the former royal schedule. Starts with the King’s and Queen’s state apartments. Every nook and cranny here is crammed with gilt, woodcarvings, marble and frescoes with themes drawn from Greek and roman mythology.
After rising the king would walk with the royal procession to the Hall of Mirrors. On a historical note the Treaty of Versailles was signed here in 1919 at the end of World War II. This enormous ballroom has 17 giant mirrors and the same number of windows opposite. Next the monarch would meet his ministers in the council chamber. At lunchtime you can enjoy pancakes at Le Phare St Louis, diner-style dishes at Sisters Café or picnic alfresco in the park.
Later the king would ride, hunt or head for the King’s Library. Take tea now at Angelina’s before heading out to the gardens. And to me the gardens are the best part of the day. Admission is free and you can stroll along the Royal Walk’s ‘green carpet’ or take one of the paths leading to leafy groves. Also worth exploring are the Grand and Petit Trianon Palaces and Le Potager du Roi, the Sun King’s vegetable garden.
Time now to take the TGV train from Paris Montparnasse Station for the one hour train ride to Tours. This riverine town sandwiched between the Loire and the Cher is the gateway to the Loire Valley. The place to start is El Fath de Tours Mosque at 18 Rue Loubin. You can walk there from the station. Another Mosque – Essalam – can be found at 2 Rue Paul Sabatier. Halal kebabs can be enjoyed at Nabab, 35 rue de Bordeaux and halal pizza is sold at Pizzaria Halal, 76 Boulevard Thiers.
Next, be sure to drop by the Musee de Beaux Arts which showcases works by Degas, Delacroix and Rodin. The Musee du Campagnonnage is dedicated to the work of master craftsmen of the guilds. And at Manafacture le Manach you can see weaving to authentic 17th century patterns. The Chateau Royal is best viewed by taking a walk along the Loire. A more beguiling chateau can be found at Amboise some 25 km upstream – about 20 minutes by train from the SCNF station.
For an overnight stay in an authentic French home, La Heraudiere is the place. It is a charming spacious former farmhouse run by Virginie and Dominique who are most helpful explaining how to get around. Guest rooms have original furniture, lots of wooden beams and a plentiful supply of tea and coffee. Breakfast is taken at a family style table groaning with home made yogurt and jams, fresh juice and croissants, fruit bread and honey. And for bookworms there is a large library by the fire. +332 4772 9447, www.laheraudiere.com
Next up is another chateau. The chic town of Fontainebleau grew up around its chateau and is enveloped by one of France’s most wonderful woods. Less frantic than Versailles it also offers more walking and cycling opportunities – even rock climbing. And there is a lively dining scene owing to the town’s raison d’etre today – an international graduate business school. To get there take the SCNF Transilien train from Gare de Lyon to Fontainbleau Avon. Then hop on a Line A bus or taxi for the last 2km to the chateau.
One of France’s most exquisitely furnished palaces, Fontainebleau is quite a mix of styles. Originally a hunting lodge it was recreated as an Italian Mannerist palace in the early 16th century. It was further reworked by successive leaders including Henri IV and Napoleon Bonaparte. Highlights include the Second Empire Salon, The Chinese Museum of Empress Eugenie and Andre Le Notre’s formal French Garden.
Two hours by train from Paris’ Gare de L’Est station cosmopolitan Strasbourg is an important European crossroads as it is home to the European Parliament, a Franco-German TV network and a large student population. The cultural capital of Alsace, Strasbourg lies just 3km from the German border. So it’s not surprising that sauerkraut and spatzle appear on the menu. The old town, especially the Petite France area, is famed for its half-timbered houses, defence towers and the Vauban Dam. Also worth visiting are the museum of Modern and Contemporary Art and the Alsatian Museum.
Back in the Paris environs two more chateaux await us. Malmaison lies some 14 km west of the capital. To get there take the metro or RER train to La Defense, then bus 258 to Le Chateau stop. Napoleon’s wife Josephine bought the house in 1779 and filled the heated orangerie with 300 pineapple plants. Be sure to visit the magnificent vaulted and frescoed library, the sunny Salon de Mustique and the canopied Campaign Room.
Our last chateau, Vaux-le-Vicomte, is perhaps the most pleasing architecturally. It lies some 50 km southeast of Paris and can be reached by taking a regular or RER train to Melun. From there take the shuttle bus or a taxi for the last 6km. A self-guided tour takes in the suite of the aforementioned owner Nicolas Fouquet’s suite, the copper-filled kitchen, servants’ quarters, the expansive gardens and the Carriage Museum where there are period pieces on display. Highlights include tapestries, painted ceilings and candlelight evenings in summer. Bon voyage!

Main Page	Page Up
عربي