Journey to
History
Chinese people have a long held belief that they are descendents of the dragon, a tradition that is firmly embedded in their culture and one that is encountered across all aspects of Chinese society.
By Wang Yuanchang
They compare the zigzag Great Wall to a giant dragon that winds up and down across deserts, grasslands, mountains and plateaus, stretching approximately 8,851.8 kilometers (the Ming Great Wall) from east to west of China. It began as independent walls for different states when it was first built, and did not become the "Great" wall until the Qin Dynasty (221-207 B.C.). Since then, it went through constant extensions and repairs in Han (206 B.C-A.D.220) and Ming (1368–1644) dynasties and became one of the most amazing piece of engineering in the world. The well-known Simatai, Gubeikou and Badaling are the most visited sections of Great Wall, but actually this national symbol par excellence of China has much to explore.
The Sole Section into the Sea
The Great Wall wanders towards south from the Shanhaiguan or Shanhai Pass, turns sharply at the South China Sea mouth to run parallel with the coastline, and finally emerges into the Bohai Sea, four kilometers from the pass. The easternmost end of the Great Wall leading to the sea is called Laolongtou (Old Dragon's Head), which stretches 23 meters like a dragon head dipping into the sea, hence its name. This section of the wall was built during the reign of Ming emperor Wanli in 1579 – almost two hundred years after the construction of the Shanhaiguan main fortifications.
Morning is the best time to avoid the streaming crowd in Laolongtou. The ancient artillery and fluttering flags along the wall evoke you a sense of heroic solemnity. Different from other buildings in Laolongtou, the heavy timber construction covered with hipped-garble roof is Chenghai Tower that overlooks the sea, the highest point on the Old Dragon Head. Climbing up the two-story building of 14.5m-high, 15.68m-long, and 12m-wide, you can have a good view. the snow-white waves beating on the rocks, the sea afar stretching away to meet the sky, the surrounding mountains and the Great Wall. Standing on the commanding height of Laolongtou surrounded by the immense waters throws you into the sober realization that mankind and its efforts are puny in the context of the universe.
The Weatherbeaten Westernmost Fort
Even out here in the semi-deserts, the wall continues its long march. Here, Jiayuguan or Jiayu Pass, located about six kilometers (four miles) southwest of Jiangyuguan City in Gansu Province, marks the western starting point of the Great Wall constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Commonly referred to as the finest example of its kind on earth, the pass is the best preserved of the Great Wall's ancient military fortresses. Construction of Jiayuanguan Great Wall was consistent with the basic principle, that is, to take actions that suit local circumstances and to use local materials. So the Great Wall in the northwest region was rammed with yellow mud. During original construction, in addition to yellow mud, other ancillary materials were also adulterated, such as grass roots, grass stems, achnatherum or sticky rice slurry. After the process of stirring, frying or steaming, the grass seeds would all die, so as to ensure they would not germinate and damage the wall body. The most important part of Jiayuguan Great wall is the Gate City. It consists of turrets, fortresses, embrasured watchtowers, beacon towers, ditches and a barbican entrance. It is a meticulous defense system with series of fortified passes, in which the small city is embedded in another city with ditches outside the large one. Facing the Gobi, to its south is the turbulent Taolai River and the Wenshu Mountain and on its inner side lies a smooth terrain made of oases, fertile pasture land with adequate water sources. Standing on the gate tower of the Jiayuguan Pass and looking around, the marks and scars that were left by beacon fire at the ancient battlefield can still be seen. Looking afar, the Great Wall seems like a dragon flickering in the boundless sea of sand. Ancient charm and historical splendor give the Pass a sense of historical importance.
Holding the North in Awe
If the Shanhaiguan and Jiayuguan are compared to be the head and tail of the Great Wall, Zhenbeitai also called Pacify the North Tower in English is reputed to be "the Heart of the Great Wall". But locals prefer to believe it is the backbone of dragon, either because of its location or because it is the strategic passage between north and south.
Locating at three miles north of Yulin City in Shaanxi Province, Zhenbeitai Great Wall is the largest fortresses on the Great Wall. Built in the year 1607 in the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644), it originally served as an observation post for observing the enemy situation and maintaining order at the Horse Trade Market where the Han people and the Nomadic people carried on business transactions.
Built of rammed earth inside and covered with blue bricks outside, Zhenbeitai takes up an area of 5,000 sq km, measuring 320 meters around its base. The four-storey square-shaped tower is over 30 meters (98 ft) in height, with each storey decreasing in size from bottom to top and between each storey there is a staircase to enable the soldiers to ascend to the top.
Climbing up Zhenbeitai and taking a panoramic view, the landscapes are different on the inner and outer sides of the Great Wall. To the north is a typical northern-frontier scene with continuous desert and loess hills, presenting a lonely and desolate prospect. To the south are areas of growing woods, glittering Yuxi River and the preliminarily modernized Yulin city afar, presenting a scene vibrant with life. At the foot of the terrace, after finishing a day's work of sand-break forests growing, several planters just held planting tools and sang the folk Song of North Shaanxi. Resonant, melodious songs echoed through the terrace, always to be heard in Shaanxi.
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