SINGAPORE
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A Muslim visitor to Singapore will immediately feel at home in the city state's Arab Quarter. This Islamic enclave was founded in the 1880s and can be easily explored in an hour or two.
By Veronica Maria Garbutt
The heart of the community is the Sultan Mosque, built in Saracenic style, and the main prayer hall can accommodate 5,000. A space for religious education anda community building can be found at the annexe.
Bounded by Arab Street, Rochor Canal Road, Jalal Sultan and Beach Road, this largely mercantile area is a riot of brightly painted shop houses, vividly coloured textiles and the aroma of halal curries and golden breads. And during Ramadan the faithful gather to break their fast with traditional cakes and snacks at sundown.
Singapore's Arab community is small but influential. Most people came from Hadramaut in Yemen, opening trading companies. Philanthropic projects such as building schools and welfare associations were their forte.
The neighbourhood was assigned to the Malay Sultan of Johor who ruled Singapore. The original mosque on this site was built in 1824. It had a low two-tiered roof and was partly financed by the East India company. The present building was completed early last century and was designed by architects Swan and McLaren. It combines Arab, Persian and Turkish styles including pointed arches, domes and minarets.
After sipping Turkish or Malaysian tea or fresh lime juice in one of the cafes along palm and papaya tree fringed Bussorah Mall, note the necks of the large onion domes. If you look carefully you will see a wide black band made from rows of bottles stacked on their sides, five or six bottles high. The reflection of the sun causes them to glisten like black and brown jewels. Two areas here have taps for wudhu ablutions before prayers. A large lobby where a digital display lists prayer times leads to the main prayer hall. This large bare chamber holds two more digital clocks and is out of bounds to non-Muslims. It is for male worshippers only while women occupy the galleries above.
On Fridays the imam delivers the khutba, or sermon, from the mimbar, an ornate pulpit atop a staircase reserved for the purpose. The mihrab is a small niche that marks the direction of Mecca. Here the imam leads the congregation in prayers five times a day. This area is decorated with intricately patterned gold motifs.
In order for the mosque to be built with the prayer hall facing Mecca, North Bridge Road was constructed with a distinct curve. A mosque annexe adjacent opened in 1993 provides space for religious rituals, education and community development. Non-Muslims are welcome at the mosque, but cannot enter the prayer hall. Appropriate dress is required and shoes must be removed outside.
Arab Street has the greatest concentration of shops. Numbers 73 and 97 still have the traditional dark wood and glass cabinets and benches where the shopkeepers sit. Textiles are the most prominent product here with colourful displays of cloth along with leather, batik, gemstones and basketware. At 705 North Bridge Road Kazura aromatics sells alcohol-free fragrances and neighbouring shops sell sonkok hats, prayer mats and muswak sticks for teeth cleaning.
Behind this shop across Victoria Street is the Muslim Cemetery with square stones marking men's graves and round ones those of women. A little further east on the corner of Jalan Sultan is Malabar mosque, built by Muslim immigrants from South India.
Back in Kampong Glam between Kandahar and Aliwal streets is the Malay Heritage Centre. It is housed in the Istana, a stately colonial building built as a palace for Sultan Ali Iskandar Shah. Until a few years ago the Sultan's descendents lived here. Today many interesting artefacts are displayed here including model boats, maps, daggers and drums illustrate the history of the Malay archipelago. Upstairs showcases community life including a traditional Malay house.
East of Aliwal street and Jalan Sultan, Hajiah Fatimah Mosque was built by a local family in gratitude for their escape from a fire. Built around 1846, it is a mixture of Malay, European and Chinese styles with a tilting minaret.
In the accommodation department Aliwal Park is one of the few hotels in the Arab Quarter. It is in the mid range and not far from the more upmarket Hotel Clover.
Halal food is plentiful. The Islamic Restaurant serves the best chicken biryani. Cafe Le Caire offers mainstream Egyptian dishes along with some specialist Saudi and Yemeni ones. El Sheikh does excellent mezze and here you can dine indoors or out. And for a taste of local food, Bumbu offers 'fish pillow' – fish mixed with spices and deep fried – amid an atmosphere of antiques.
A short walk away from the Arab quarter is the fabled Raffles hotel, a labyrinth of tropical courtyards and verandahs. Founded in 1887 by the Armenian Sarkies brothers as a beachfront bungalow, this grande dame of Singapore was revamped in 1991 with new shops and suites. A small museum showcases the hotel's early days with photographs, letters and memorabilia.
Previous guests include Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham, Joseph Conrad and Noel Coward. A favourite tradition is to enjoy High Tea at the Tiffin Room. Here cucumber and salmon finger sandwiches are served with clotted cream and cakes along with tea.
While in the area don't miss Singapore Art Museum on Bras Basah road. Here the emphasis is on Southeast Asian artists. Only a selection is displayed at any one time and you may catch Srihadi Sudarsono's Horizon Dan Prahui, a view of traditional fishing boats. Or perhaps you will find sketches and paintings by Liu Kang of postwar kampong life.
A ten minute walk from Orchard road, Singapore Botanic Gardens provide a welcome retreat. Here in some 50 hectares are rose gardens, a palm valley, a fernery and lakes which are home to turtles and swans. And over 1,000 varieties can be found in the Orchid Garden.
The Regent, a Four Seasons hotel lies nearby and the Sunday lunch buffet with seafood galore at Basilico Italian restaurant is not to be missed. It even offers a cheese room with several types on an artistic display with accompanying breads, a first for me. And chefs are on hand to help serve and advise. Chinese and American restaurants can also be sampled, plus a tea lounge, something visitors from the Middle East are sure to enjoy. The Central Business District is Singapore's commercial heart where shophouses lining the river have been converted into cafes and restaurants. One of the most photographed sites here is the Merlion. Half fish, half lion it is the symbol of Singapore and reflects its history.
Finally. Don't miss Sentosa, an island retreat to the south. It is linked to the mainland by a causeway. Or you can go be cable car and enjoy amazing views. The name Sentosa means tranquillity and the top attractions are Images of Singapore where dioramas bring the island's story to life, Underwater World, home to 250 fish species, and Fort Siloso.
A fine family place to stay situated right on the beach amid lush gardens is Shangri La's Rasa Sentosa resort. It has Arabic speaking staff, a popular kids' club and halal menus can be tailored to your taste by enthusiastic Moroccan chef Ben Ali.Take your pick from fresh fish tagine, spiced lamb cutlets and merguez sausages with vegetable and fluffy couscous – and more. Happy trip!
